Which face cream should you use after age 60, 70, or 80?

What does the skin need after age 60?

Around 60–70 years of age, the skin undergoes profound structural changes that directly affect its water balance. The number of fibroblasts decreases, leading to reduced synthesis of collagen and elastin, while sebum production slows due to decreased activity of the sebaceous glands. At the same time, the skin’s natural stores of hyaluronic acid gradually decline, which limits the skin’s ability to retain water. The synthesis of epidermal lipids also decreases, weakening the skin barrier.

Result: the skin becomes drier, less supple, thinner, and more vulnerable to external aggressions.

This alteration of the barrier function promotes dehydration and explains why feelings of discomfort and tightness become more frequent with age. These phenomena are amplified by changes in skin architecture. The dermal–epidermal junction, which ensures cohesion between the dermis and the epidermis and regulates the exchange of water and nutrients, progressively deteriorates.

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2.64 mm²

Average surface area of the dermo-epidermal junction at the abdominal level in individuals aged 21 to 40 years (study based on skin biopsies).

1.90 mm²

Average surface area of the dermo–epidermal junction in the abdominal region in individuals aged 61 to 80 years (study based on skin biopsies).

This reduction in surface area, combined with an overall thinning of the skin, decreases exchanges between the different skin layers and contributes to increased dryness. In addition, dermal microcirculation slows down, limiting the supply of oxygen and nutrients, which leads to a duller complexion.

The hydration is a central issue after age 60.

It’s not only about bringing water to the skin, but also about strengthening its ability to retain it by supporting the skin barrier. At the same time, sun protection remains indispensable. Contrary to some common misconceptions, the risk of skin cancers does not decrease with age; in fact, it tends to increase. Thinner, more fragile skin that has accumulated years of UV exposure is particularly vulnerable. Daily use of sunscreen therefore remains essential to preserve the integrity of the skin and, additionally, to limit the signs of photoaging.

Note : It is never too late to start using sun protection. Several studies have shown the benefits of adding a sunscreen to one’s daily routine after age 40. In addition to lowering the risk of melanoma and carcinoma, this has been shown to reduce visible signs of aging.

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How do you choose a moisturizer at 60, 70, or 80 years old?

Starting at 60, 70, or 80 years of age, the skin requires care that is both highly hydrating and deeply nourishing.

As the skin becomes drier and its barrier function weakened, it is recommended to choose rich creams that contain a high proportion of film‑forming agents, such as butters or waxes, which can limit water loss and strengthen the barrier function. This will help restore skin comfort and reduce feelings of tightness. In the morning, it is best to opt for a day cream that includes a high sun protection factor (SPF 50), in order to simplify the routine while ensuring effective protection against UV radiation.

In the evening, we also recommend a cream with a rich, enveloping texture. If you wish, this is also an opportunity to use a facial cream containing active ingredients that target visible signs of aging, such as retinol, one of the best documented. This vitamin A derivative works by stimulating cell turnover and promoting the synthesis of components of the extracellular matrix, such as collagen. A double-blind clinical study conducted with 36 participants with an average age of 87 evaluated the effectiveness of a lotion containing 0.4% retinol, applied up to three times per week for 24 weeks. The results showed a significant reduction in wrinkles compared with the control group.

Les effets sur les rides d'une lotion à 0,4% de rétinol. — The effects on wrinkles of a lotion containing 0.4% retinol.
Source : SCHUMACHER W. E. & al. Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol). JAMA Dermatology (2007).

Beyond the visible effect on wrinkles, this study also highlighted underlying biological changes. An increase in the expression of glycosaminoglycans—molecules capable of retaining large amounts of water—as well as an increase in the production of procollagen I was observed in the treated areas.

Induction de l'expression des glycosaminoglycanes par le rétinol. — Induction of glycosaminoglycan expression by retinol.
Source : SCHUMACHER W. E. & al. Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol). JAMA Dermatology (2007).

These results suggest that retinol helps improve both skin hydration and skin structure.

Nevertheless, its use must remain gradual, because it is a very potent active ingredient and is sometimes associated with irritation. It is recommended to start with one application every three days for two weeks, then, in the absence of any signs of irritation, to gradually increase the frequency to every other day, and eventually to daily application if the skin tolerates it.