Exposed to numerous external aggressors such as UV rays and pollution, the skin loses its radiance over time and can even develop brown spots, on which few active ingredients can act. Is this the case with aloe vera? Discover here if this natural ingredient has an effect on hyperpigmentation.
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Does aloe vera help to diminish brown spots?
Summary
Published June 12, 2024,
updated on October 4, 2024,
by
Pauline, Head of Scientific Communication
—
4 min read
What is the effect of aloe vera on hyperpigmentation?
A succulent plant from the Asphodelaceae family, the aloe vera is highly appreciated by art enthusiasts for the aesthetic appeal it brings to a room. However, its utility goes beyond that: its leaves contain a translucent gel with a viscous texture that has moisturizing, softening, and repairing properties when applied topically. Commonly used pure or to formulate cosmetic care, aloe vera gel is a versatile treatment that can be used on different parts of the body, such as the face, hair, or even the nails. Among its many benefits, some also mention its lightening properties.
Indeed, according to certain studies in vitro, aloesin, a molecule found in aloe vera gel, is capable of suppressing the hydroxylation of tyrosine into DOPA and the oxidation of DOPA into dopachrome, a metabolite of melanin biosynthesis. As a reminder, the melanin produced during the process of melanogenesis is responsible for skin pigmentation. When it is synthesized excessively or disorderly, due to prolonged or repeated UV exposure or hormonal changes, it can cause brown spots. These initial results regarding aloe vera seem promising in terms of its effect on hyperpigmentation.
However, this effect was not observed in topical application during the clinical trials conducted on this subject. The results of two of these are compiled in the table below and demonstrate a lack of effect of aloe vera on brown spots. Each of these studies involved a significant number of volunteers with hyperpigmentation, a condition whose progression was quantified using the MASI score (Melasma Area Severity Index). This scale, commonly used in research to measure the severity of melasma, takes into account 3 criteria: the affected area, the degree of pigmentation, and its uniformity.
| Study | Number of Participants | Duration of the Study | Results |
|---|---|---|---|
| EATEMADI & al. (2016) | 90 | 5 weeks | No significant variation in the MASI score |
| SIKANDAR & al. (2020) | 60 | 12 weeks | No significant variation in the MASI score |
Étude de l'effet du gel d'aloe vera sur les taches brunes.
The inefficacy of aloe vera gel in topical application on brown spots can be explained as follows: this ingredient is highly hydrophilic, meaning it has an affinity with aqueous environments. However, the stratum corneum, the first barrier of the epidermis, is primarily composed of fatty substances, such as lipids. Therefore, aloe vera gel cannot dissolve in it and remains on the skin's surface. Unable to reach the melanocytes, it cannot exert the lightening effects demonstrated in vitro.
Advice : If you wish to diminish your brown spots, we recommend relying on active ingredients such as the tranexamic acid or the glycolic acid, whose effectiveness has been demonstrated in topical application. Dermatological peeling, laser, or even pulsed light are also solutions.
Sources
SAPLE D. G. & al. Aloe vera: a brief overview. Indian Journal of Dermatology (2008).
EATEMADI A. & al. Clinical efficacy of liposome-encapsulated Aloe vera in the treatment of melasma during pregnancy. Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy (2016).
SIKANDAR S. & al. A double-blind study comparing the effectiveness of Aloe vera gel and 2% undecylenoyl phenylalanine in the treatment of melasma. The Professional Medical Journal (2020).
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