Also known as ascorbic acid, the vitamin C is a major vitamin in the body. It is water-soluble, unlike the vitamin E which is fat-soluble, it helps to neutralize free radicals in the skin’s aqueous compartments, such as the cytosol and the extracellular fluid, thereby helping to slow its aging. The vitamin C also stimulates fibroblast activity, the cells that synthesize the collagen and elastin, the structural proteins of the dermal extracellular matrix.
Vitamin C may also help combat inflammation.
Indeed, inflammation is closely linked to oxidative stress. When free radicals accumulate in skin tissues, they activate a cascade of molecular signals capable of damaging DNA, proteins, and lipids, triggering a series of micro-inflammations that are often invisible yet real. These reactions can be amplified by the activation of nuclear factors, such as AP-1 or NF-κB, both regulators of the immune response. Their stimulation leads to the release of pro-inflammatory cytokines, such as TNF-α and IL-6, and to the overexpression of COX-2 and iNOS enzymes, both contributing to the maintenance of an inflammatory state. That is why antioxidants, such as vitamin C, play an interesting preventive role against inflammation.
But vitamin C’s action goes even further. Several studies have shown that ascorbic acid directly modulates inflammation signaling pathways, notably NF-κB and MAPK, leading to decreased production of pro-inflammatory cytokines. This molecule also helps reduce the expression of the pro-inflammatory enzymes COX-2 and iNOS, which contribute to vasodilation and skin redness.
Vitamin C thus appears to play both a preventive and an active role in inflammation.
However, even though the data in vitro convincingly demonstrate the anti-inflammatory properties of vitamin C, clinical evidence remains limited. The available studies, two of which are presented below, suggest beneficial effects on the skin, but their number is still insufficient. It therefore appears necessary to conduct further clinical trials to confirm and clarify the efficacy of vitamin C in modulating skin inflammation.