The DHA is the molecule found in the majority of self-tanning products. It allows for a sun-kissed complexion without exposure to the sun. Let's focus on its properties and functionalities in self-tanning products.
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How does Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) work?
Summary
- What is Dihydroxyacetone (DHA)?
- How does DHA work?
- Find DHA in our self-tanning serum
- Are there any risks associated with the use of DHA?
- Sources
Published February 21, 2022,
updated on June 20, 2024,
by
Maylis, Chemical Engineer
—
5 min read
What is Dihydroxyacetone (DHA)?
DHA is currently the main active ingredient in self-tanning products. Chemically, it is a sugar, more specifically a carbohydrate monomer with a molecular mass of 90.08 g/mol. This molecule, soluble in water and ethanol but insoluble in oil, can be of synthetic or plant origin. Natural DHA is generally derived from a biotechnological process that involves the steps of fermentation and bacterial bioconversion of glycerol extracted from beetroot.
In the 1960s, DHA was not favored due to the unnatural orange hue it left on the skin. It only became popular in the 1980s because, when combined with erythrulose, it resulted in a much more uniform and natural-looking tan. The erythrulose is also a compound obtained through biotechnology. This natural sugar is present in plant cells, such as raspberries or beets, among others.
How does DHA work?
When applied to the skin, this tanning agent reacts with the amine functions carried by the amino acids present in the dead cells of the corneal layer to form pigments, known as melanoidins. The browning effect on the skin results from this reaction, referred to as the Maillard reaction.
Skin pigmentation appears within 2 to 6 hours following the application of a self-tanning product. However, this color gradually fades, disappearing completely in 5 to 7 days. This phenomenon is due to the frequent renewal of the stratum corneum (the natural process of skin shedding). Therefore, this method of tanning without sun exposure does not trigger melanin production and thus does not provide any protective effect against UV radiation. Self-tanning does not equate to sun protection! Always remember to protect your skin with a sunscreen broad spectrum to avoid the harmful effects of UV rays.
Find DHA in our self-tanning serum.
The self-tanning serum containing 10% DHA and carob pulp extract enhances the complexion just 12 hours after the first application for a gradual effect. The carob pulp present in the serum helps to maintain the healthy glow effect for a longer period. Unlike chemical self-tanners, Typology's self-tanning serum does not produce an artificial orange coloration.
Are there any risks associated with the use of DHA?
In self-tanning skincare products, DHA is regulated at a maximum concentration of 10%.
The SCCS (Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety) has stated that DHA present in self-tanning products does not pose a health risk to the consumer at a maximum concentration of 10%.
Furthermore,no scientific study has proven thatDHA penetrates the skin's protective barriers. It is not contraindicated for pregnant women.
On the other hand, a self-tanning product containing DHA can cause irritation if applied to sensitive areas of the body. That's why all body parts covered with mucous membranes should be free of self-tanner. Similarly, inhalation and ingestion of this type of care are discouraged. Indeed, this can cause asthma as well as DNA damage and cancer risks.
Furthermore, DHA can dry out the skin and increase its sensitivity to the sun. It's worth noting that this characteristic is often counterbalanced in self-tanning formulas by the presence of humectant compounds such as glycerin and/or sugar derivatives.To combat this potentially drying effect, make sure to hydrate your skin daily, morning and night, both on the face and body.The face moisturizing cream with 9 ingredients is enriched with hyaluronic acid and coconut oil. It's a minimalist formula that hydrates and nourishes the epidermis. Its light and non-greasy texture is suitable for dry, normal, and combination skin, even sensitive ones. For the body, opt for the body moisturizing cream with 10 ingredients, which hydrates all skin types, even sensitive ones.
Sources:
KOCHEVAR I. E. & al. Factors influencing sunless tanning with dihydroxyacetone. British Journal of Dermatology (2003).
Opinion on Dihydroxyacetone. Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (2010).
CIRIMINNA R. & al. Dihydroxyacetone: An updated insight into a significant bioproduct. ChemistryOpen (2018).
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