Three products for a radiant, customizable tan — without UV rays

Three products for a radiant, customizable tan — without UV rays

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Hyaluronic Acid

Commonly known as: Hyaluronic acid.
I.N.C.I. list name: Sodium Hyaluronate.
Extraction process: Bacterial biofermentation from plant extracts, purification and precipitation.
Source: Vegetal (wheat, corn, soya).
Botanical name: Triticum sativum (wheat), Zea mays (corn), Glycine maxima (soya).
Family: Poaceae (wheat, corn), Fabaceae (soybean).
Part of the plant extracted: Seeds (wheat, corn), plant substrate (soybean).
Provenance, origin: high molecular weight: France (wheat) and China (corn); low molecular weight: France (wheat) and Czech Republic (soybean).
Chemical characteristics: nsulfated linear glycosaminoglycan composed of repeating units of disaccharides; Soluble in water and non-soluble in alcohol; low molecular weight hyaluronic acid: from 2.0 x 10^5 to 4.0 x 10^5 Dalton; High molecular weight hyaluronic acid: from 1.8 x 10^6 to 2.2 x 10^6 Dalton.
Characteristics: Emulsion, colloidal solution, true aqueous solution, balm.
Dosage required in cosmetic products: Hyaluronic acid can work at very low percentages, from 0.01%. We recommend using it between 0,01 and 3% (maximum non-regulated concentration).
Function: Humectant, moisturizer, skin maintenance agent.
Properties: Moisturizing, plumping, filmogenic, emollient.
Benefits: All skin types, especially dehydrated, dry, dull or mature skin.

Details

Characteristics

  • Anti-inflammatory, antioxidant: Able to decrease the production of pro-inflammatory interleukins responsible for the generation of free radicals that cause premature aging of the skin.

  • Filmogenic, protective: Strengthen the skin barrier by creating a viscoelastic film on the surface to prevent water present in the skin from evaporating and to protect it from external aggressions.

  • Moisturizer: Ability to bind up to 1,000 times its weight in water, allowing to fill the intercellular spaces by combining with water molecules.

  • Restructuring, plumping: Infiltrate the layers of the epidermis to capture and gel water for a plumping effect, in addition to reinforcing and stimulating the natural production of hyaluronic acid by fibroblasts by serving as signaling molecules, to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and plump the skin.

Use

  • Face care (serums with aqueous gel texture, face creams, eye contour creams, face sun creams, lip balms, face masks, tonic lotions);

  • Hair care (shampoos, moisturizing hair masks, conditioners);

  • Body care (sun creams, milks, gels, hand balms).

Preservation

Store in a cool, well-ventilated place between 2 and 8 °C for long-term storage. Keep away from heat, moisture and direct sunlight.

Contra-indications and precautions

In topical application, hyaluronic acid is a safe active and particularly well tolerated by all the types of skin. It is nevertheless not recommended to use a care product containing hyaluronic acid on places where the skin presents inflammation and infections.

According to the ANSM (National Agency for the Safety of Medicines and Health Products), only 0.1 to 1% of people suffer from adverse reactions to injections. The most common are edema, skin redness, itching, erythema and slight bruising. These are not to be worried about, they are common and disappear within a few days. Surgical injections of hyaluronic acid are contraindicated in case of pregnancy or breastfeeding.

Find out more

Hyaluronic acid was discovered in the vitreous humor of the bovine eye in 1934. In cosmetics, the first care product containing this active ingredient appeared in the 1970s. At that time, hyaluronic acid was extracted from rooster's crests following a chemical treatment, grinding and purification. Today, for ethical reasons and to comply with regulations, microbial production of hyaluronic acid has replaced its extraction from animal sources.

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