How is a calendula oil macerate produced?

Symbolizing gentleness, the calendula is a Mediterranean plant whose properties have been known since antiquity and some of which have been scientifically validated. Its active molecules, particularly the flavonoids, have demonstrated their benefits on inflammations, skin irritations, redness, and burns. Its compounds also give it wound-healing action. Thanks to its high antioxidant content, it also contributes to maintaining the elasticity and suppleness of the skin. Particularly recommended for sensitive, delicate, irritated or inflamed skin, as well as for relieving sunburns for example, it offers numerous applications especially in cosmetics where it is mainly used in the form of macerated oil.

Among the methods of extracting calendula flower oil, we can mention the maceration of the flowering tops in fatty substances such as a vegetable oil, a traditional method known since Antiquity using a static diffusion phenomenon, or the extraction by oily solvent, a more modern, fast, and efficient alternative.

These two processes allow the lipophilic substances of the plant to dissolve in the oil, creating a concentrated extract. Regardless of the chosen method, the calendula petals used are handpicked during the blooming period, from May to October, in order to preserve the properties of the plant.

• Cold or hot maceration.

  The plant material is infused into a carrier oil, such as virgin sunflower, sesame, or olive oil, which has not undergone any chemical treatment or refinement before or after cold pressing. Thanks to sunlight or heat, this process helps to release the various compounds of calendula. Once the maceration period is over, thecalendula oil is then filtered through cloth or a sieve to remove flower residues.

• Solvent extraction technology.

  The oil macerate of calendula can also be obtained through the oil-type solvent extraction method. This process intensifies the solvent power of the fatty substance due to the compression created in the extraction chamber. Under pressure, the solvent (vegetable oil) forcefully passes through the filter bag containing the biomass in order to extract the active plant compounds contained in dry or fresh calendula flowers, and to concentrate them in an oily carrier, all while being protected from light and preserving all bio-functional compounds.

  In a matter of minutes, this pressure allows for the bursting of plant cells and promotes the transfer of lipophilic compounds (phytosterols, carotenoids...) into the oily vector during the decompression phase, but also of more polar or amphiphilic compounds such as flavonoids. As a result, we obtain an oily extract enriched with non-oxidized plant actives, boasting high yields of extracted molecules, stability, and optimized organoleptic characteristics.

We obtain an oily liquid of an orange-yellow color, with a very discreet and neutral smell, and a creamy and relatively well-penetrating touch. Sensitive to oxidation, the calendula oil extract must be stored in an airtight bottle, protected from light, air, and heat to preserve its quality. It can then be used as is or transformed into cosmetic care.

The calendula macerate used in our treatments was obtained by the solvent extraction method from calendula flower heads, sourced from organic farming, originating from Egypt and using organic cold-pressed sunflower oil (Germany) as the solvent.

• JADHAV A. & al. A review on preparation of calendula oil. Sumerianz Journal of Medical and Healthcare (2023).