Exposure to UV rays, whether natural or artificial, is often criticized, and rightly so. It indeed has harmful effects on the skin, sometimes quite severe. However, this does not necessarily mean that one must give up on a tanned complexion. Today, there are other solutions available that allow for tanning without resorting to UV rays.
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How can we tan without UV?
Summary
- What does tanning consist of?
- Being tanned without UV: using a self-tanner
- Achieving a tan without UV: applying skincare products for a "healthy glow"
- Being tanned without UV: incorporating specific foods into your diet
- Source
Published April 4, 2023,
updated on October 4, 2024,
by
Pauline, Chemical Engineer
—
6 min read
What does tanning consist of?
Tanning is often viewed as a lovely glow that the skin acquires after sunbathing. From a biological perspective, it is actually a skin defense mechanism against the assault of UV rays. Indeed, these generate free radicals, unstable species that damage our cell membranes, as well as our DNA, which can lead to mutations and the formation of cancerous cells. Free radicals can also cause the denaturation and loss of function of fibrous proteins such as collagen and elastin, structural proteins of the dermis. To protect itself, the skin responds by activating melanogenesis, the process of synthesizing melanin, the brown pigment responsible for tanning. However, this does not provide complete skin protection and needs to be supplemented by the application of a broad-spectrum sunscreen.
Being tanned without UV: using a self-tanner.
In recent years, there has been an increasing number ofself-tanners available in the cosmetic care market. Mousse, cream, gel, serum... these products offer several benefits, including the ability to achieve a beautiful tan without exposure to UV rays and their associated risks.
Most self-tanners contain a plant-derived molecule, known as dihydroxyacetone (DHA). Once applied to the skin, this compound induces a brownish hue within 4 to 6 hours, by reacting with the amino acids in the stratum corneum of the epidermis through a Maillard reaction to form pigments, the melanoidins, which are responsible for skin coloring.
We also often encountererythrulose in self-tanners, a sugar found in red fruits. This compound acts similarly to DHA but more slowly. TheDHA-erythrulose combination allows for a more natural and uniform tan. Moreover, erythrulose has moisturizing properties that counterbalance the drying power of DHA.
At Typology, we have developed two self-tanning formulations, offering a natural bronzed complexion. For a natural and progressive tan, you can try our self-tanning serum. It is concentrated at 10% in DHA and also contains carob pulp (INCI: Ceratonia Siliqua Seed Extract), a compound rich in inositol, a molecule that acts on melanogenesis. We also recommend our self-tanning gel for the body, enriched with 6% DHA. This care product also includes aloe vera, which is highly moisturizing.
Note : there are also self-tanning showers, which are booths where fine droplets of a self-tanning lotion are sprayed onto the body and/or face. This is a fairly convenient and quick technique (less than ten minutes if a machine is used) offering a uniform result. However, one might question the risk of inhaling DHA. Indeed, the ingestion or inhalation of this molecule could potentially lead to asthma, lung diseases, or cancer. To date, no health authority has established that self-tanning showers pose a health risk, due to the short exposure time to the product.
Achieving a tan without UV: applying skincare products for a "healthy glow".
To achieve a natural, sun-kissed complexion that is lighter than what you would get from using a self-tanner, you can turn to "healthy glow" treatments. These contain targeted active ingredients, often acting on the process of melanogenesis. For example, consider the carrot macerate.
This vegetable oil has a slight coloration, which allows it to provide a healthy glow effect. Moreover, due to its high content in vitamin A and carotenoids, this active ingredient is an excellent antioxidant, helping to protect the skin against free radicals. It also has a stimulating effect on melanogenesis. Other vegetable oils, like the buriti oil , also have a slightly orange color, providing a light tan.
To promote melanogenesis, you can also rely on carob pulp extract. Containing inositol, this ingredient acts on the diacylglycerol/protein kinase C (DAG/PKC) biological pathway. This mechanism triggers a cascade of reactions, ultimately leading to the activation of tyrosinase, the key enzyme in melanogenesis. The glycyrrhetinic acid, the active principle of licorice, serves as an alternative to carob pulp extract and acts similarly on this biological pathway.
Being tanned without UV: incorporating specific foods into your diet.
To achieve a tan without UV exposure, one can also modify their diet. Indeed, consuming certain foods, rich in specific nutrients, can promote a tanned appearance. Similarly to topical treatments, the most well-known ally is beta-carotene. This is converted into retinol, the active form of vitamin A, in the intestinal lining.
Indeed, the presence of retinol in the blood stimulates melanogenesis, the synthesis of melanin. Beta-carotene is found in many fruits and vegetables, such as carrots, tomatoes, melons, apricots, peaches, mangoes, broccoli, and spinach. Whether in a cold soup, a summer salad, or a juice, don't hesitate to include them in your meals. The consumption of eggs is also recommended, as they are rich in vitamin A.
You can also turn to dietary supplements rich in beta-carotenes. They have the advantage of containing a higher concentration of beta-carotenes than traditional foods, which optimizes tanning. The initial effects of self-tanning capsules often appear after a month. It's also worth noting that the ideal duration of a course is generally three months.
Source
ZUCCA A. & al. A narrative review of the potential for self-tanning products to replace solaria use among individuals desiring a tanned appearance. Photodermatology, Photoimmunology and Photomedicine (2014).
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