Commonly known as: Pongamia Glabra Seed Oil (I.N.C.I.), also known as Karanj, Pongolote tree, Indian Beech, Pongamia, Punjam, Pongamia pinnata, Millettia pinnata, Derris indica.
Botanical name: Pongamia glabra.
Extraction process: First cold pressing followed by purification through refining.
Family: Legumes.
Extracted part of the plant: Seeds.
Cultivation area, origin: Primarily in India, but also in Southeast Asia, Australia, and the United States.
Blooming: Twice a year: in the spring, from April to May, and in the fall, from September to November.
Origin, provenance: States of Maharashtra and Madhya Pradesh (India).
Phytochemical composition: Polyunsaturated fatty acids (linoleic acid, alpha-linolenic acid); monounsaturated fatty acids (oleic acid); saturated fatty acids (palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid); flavonoids (pongamol, karanjin).
Sensory properties: Appearance: Oily liquid; Color: Yellow to light brown; Scent: Subtle note of nuts; Feel: Greasy.
Physical properties: Density: 0.910 - 0.940; Comedogenicity Index: 2; Saponification Index: 183; Oxidative Potential: Stable.
Concerns: Antioxidant, emollient, purifying, anti-inflammatory, softening, hydrating, regenerating, nourishing, protective, anti-bacterial.
Effect: All skin types, particularly sensitive, blemished, mature, and exposed skin; All hair types, especially hair exposed to the sun, dry, damaged/brittle, colored, and bleached; Recommended as a preventive treatment against photoaging.
Facial Care (serums, sunscreens, day creams);
Body Care (tanning oils, after-sun care, solid soaps);
Hair Care (oils, balms, shampoos, masks);
Makeups (BB creams, CC creams).
The vegetable oil of karanja is not very sensitive to oxidation. It should be stored in a cool place, protected from light and heat.
Karanja oil is highly concentrated with active molecules, thus it is not recommended to use it in its pure form. Even though karanja oil is known for its UV absorption properties, the French National Agency for Medicines and Health Products Safety (ANSM) emphasizes that it is not a sunscreen. Indeed, it is not listed by the European Cosmetic Regulation as a UV filter. Therefore, it cannot be used as such in cosmetic products and cannot replace a sunscreen cream.