Huile de karanja et protection solaire.

Karanja Oil, a Natural Sun Protection?

In recent years, karanja oil has been highlighted in sun care ranges. Some claim that beyond its antibacterial, emollient, and anti-inflammatory properties, karanja oil naturally helps the skin protect itself against sunburn and photoaging, and could serve as a natural alternative to organic sunscreens. But is this true?

Can karanja oil replace sunscreen?

In addition to the fatty acids that the karanja seed contains, it is also naturally composed of furanoflavonoids, including approximately 2.2% karanjin and less than 1% pongamol. These two active molecules would make karanja oil a natural sun protector. Furthermore, the chemical structure of pongamol is very similar to that of avobenzone, a recognized UVA filter.

To assess its photoprotective properties, laboratory tests were conducted on pure karanja oil. These tests highlighted its ability to absorb a portion of UV rays, peaking at 350 nm (in ethanol), and counteract their effects, which are responsible for sunburn and premature skin aging.

They also demonstrated that it has a Sun Protection Factor (SPF) and a UVA Protection Factor (FP-UVA), scientifically evaluated, making the oily extract of karanja a natural UV filter. A SPF ranging from 15 to 30 depending on the experiments and a FP-UVA of about 9.5 were measured in vitro for pure karanja oil.

However, the ANSM (National Agency for the Safety of Medicines and Health Products) reminded manufacturers in a note published in February 2017 that:

  1. "Sunscreen products containing only karanja oil for the purpose of achieving a protection factor are not in compliance with current regulations and should not be made available on the market";

  2. "In the case of sun protection products composed of approved ultraviolet filter(s) and karanja oil, it is important to be able to demonstrate that the sun protection factor obtained is due to the approved ultraviolet filter(s) present in the formula."

Thus, despite the photoprotective properties attributed to karanja oil, it is not officially recognized and listed as a sunscreen filter and does not appear in Annex VI of the cosmetic regulation among the other authorized UV filters. Therefore, its use in a sun protection product to provide a sun protection factor is not in compliance with current regulations.

However, it remains useful to reinforce sun care with authorized ultraviolet filters due to its anti-radical nature. They allow thekaranja oil to partially protect the skin by helping it fight against the accelerated aging caused by free radicals.

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Sun Protection: The Right Habits to Adopt.

  • Do not expose yourself between 12pm and 4pm. This is the time when UV rays are at their peak intensity and therefore more dangerous. Reminder : t'he intensity of UV is not related to the perceived temperature, but to the time of exposure.

  • Dressing up is the best way to ensure optimal protection against the sun. The safest ensemble for sun protection includes a t-shirt (ideally tightly woven or UV-treated), a wide-brimmed hat or a cap, and sunglasses with protective lenses (CE standards of category 3 or 4).

  • Provide even more protection for children and teenagers who have skin and eyes that are more sensitive to the sun than adults. Moreover, children under the age of 3 should never be directly exposed to the sun.

  • Protect your skin with sunscreen in addition to clothing, even once tanned. It should be applied evenly in sufficient quantity, twenty minutes before each exposure and should be reapplied approximately every two hours (if necessary) and systematically after each swim or in case of heavy sweating. The chosen sunscreen should have a minimum SPF of 30 and be adapted according to the situation (sea, mountain, high-risk individuals, children, etc.).

Sources

  • Documentations fournisseur.

  • ANSM (Agence National de Sécurité du Médicament et des produits de santé). Produits de protection solaire contenant de l’huile de karanja (2017).

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