Coconut oil and oily skin: good or bad idea?

Is coconut oil beneficial for oily skin?

Rich in saturated fatty acids, coconut oil is often used to reinforce the skin’s barrier. But is its occlusive nature compatible with oily skin? Should you embrace it or steer clear? Let’s break it down together.

Published on February 23, 2026, updated on February 23, 2026, by Andjela, Chemical Engineer — 5 min of reading

What effect does coconut oil have on oily skin?

The coconut oil is largely composed of medium-chain triglycerides, of which lauric acid constitutes approximately 45 to 50% of the fatty acids. This fatty acid has well-documented antimicrobial activity, notably against Cutibacterium acnes, a bacterium involved in the inflammation of acne lesions. It also exhibits anti-inflammatory properties that may modulate certain skin reactions.

Theoretically, these characteristics could indicate that coconut oil may be beneficial for oily and/or blemish-prone skin.

Moreover, coconut oil acts as an emollient and occlusive agent. By forming a lipid film on the skin’s surface, it limits transepidermal water loss and temporarily reinforces the skin barrier. However, dehydrated skin may sometimes compensate by increasing sebum production. With this in mind, restoring hydration could indirectly contribute to reducing the sebaceous imbalance typical of oily skin.

In practice, the coconut oil has a high comedogenic index (often rated 4 out of 5), indicating that it can promote pore blockage in oily or acne-prone skin. Its rich lipid content and occlusive properties can exacerbate sebum and keratin retention within the follicle, creating an environment favorable to comedone formation. Thus, despite its antimicrobial and soothing properties, its dense lipid profile generally makes it unsuitable for oily skin, particularly when applied undiluted.

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Coconut oil and oily skin: Are there better alternatives?

Although coconut oil offers certain theoretical advantages, it is not necessarily the most suitable option for oily skin, especially in cases of acne-prone skin or frequent pore blockage. For this skin type, lighter vegetable oils with low comedogenic potential and a lipid profile closer to that of sebum human, are generally preferable.

The jojoba oil, for example, is actually a liquid wax whose structure is very similar to the wax esters naturally present in sebum. This biological affinity enables it to reinforce the skin barrier without creating a pronounced occlusive effect. It is often described as sebum-regulating, meaning it may help stabilize sebum production by the sebaceous glands. However, the scientific evidence remains too limited to state this definitively.
Grapeseed oil, rich in linoleic acid, has a light, fast-absorbing texture. Linoleic acid is especially beneficial for oily skin, since a relative deficiency of this fatty acid has been observed in the sebum of acne-prone skin. Its inclusion can therefore help improve the quality of the hydrolipidic film, while reducing the risk of comedones.
The hazelnut oil, also well tolerated by combination to oily skin types, has a dry feel and is rich in unsaturated fatty acids that promote rapid absorption. It delivers an emollient effect without a lingering greasy sensation and without clogging pores.

These oils are less likely to obstruct pores and trigger comedone formation.

Note : In a moisturizing cream properly formulated, coconut oil can be beneficial for oily skin. It’s all about the ratio with the other formulation ingredients. Greater caution is advised when using pure coconut oil.