Eau minérale comme soin de la peau.

Mineral water for skin care, the new trend from China.

In recent months, a new trend from China has sparked interest: replacing cosmetic products with mineral water, applied to the skin using a soaked cotton pad. While this method is appealing due to its reduced cost, is it effective for skin care? Let's decipher this new practice together.

Replacing cosmetics with mineral water: what are the reasons for this enthusiasm?

Social networks, press, word of mouth... The trend of mineral water continues to gain popularity in China. The enthusiasm for this method is primarily based on its minimalism. In a context where more and more consumers are turning towards simplified skincare routines, the use of mineral water for skin care appears as a natural and economical alternative to traditional cosmetics. From a practical point of view, it aims to replace lotions, products that are very popular in Asia. Applied after the cleanser and before the serum, these products help to rebalance the skin's pH and provide an initial dose of hydration. Mineral water would thus be a simplified version of these treatments.

Furthermore, mineral water appeals due to its reassuring image. Indeed, concerns about cosmetic ingredients are very strong today, and many consumers are in search of simple and safe formulas. Mineral water, containing neither fragrances nor preservatives, is perceived as a gentle solution suitable for all skin types, even the most sensitive. This simplicity reassures those who are concerned about limiting their skin's exposure to controversial substances, while also responding to a general trend: favoring "free-from" care.

Finally, if mineral water is so highly favored, it is also due to its low cost. Indeed, depending on the products chosen, establishing a cosmetic routine can sometimes represent a significant investment. Mineral water, available in supermarkets at low prices, allows for a reduction in the cost of skincare routines by replacing serums and lotions, or, for some people, by substituting for all the products in a routine. It thus represents an attractive option, especially for younger generations who are budget-conscious and particularly affected by the rising cost of living.

Mineral water as a skincare treatment meets a growing need for naturalness, simplicity, and accessibility.

Mineral water for skin care, what does science say?

While certainly safe for the skin, it is reasonable to question whether the use of mineral water for skincare is based on scientific principles. However, to date, there is no scientific study conducted on the benefits of mineral water in cosmetics. Nevertheless, many scientists have explored the properties of various thermal waters. Before we proceed, a quick definition is necessary:

  • Natural Mineral Water : According to the Public Health Code, natural mineral water is microbiologically safe water that comes from an underground layer or deposit exploited from one or more natural or drilled springs constituting the source. It stands out for its purity and richness in minerals. The extraction of mineral water is done according to a strict legislative framework: these waters can only undergo a few treatments authorized by regulations, such as the separation of naturally present constituents like iron or sulfur.

  • Thermal Water : According to the Ministry of Labor, Health, Solidarity, and Families, thermal water is a natural mineral water used for therapeutic purposes. It has been the subject of scientific research and its use is regulated in thermal centers or in cosmetics. However, its extraction process, as well as its richness in minerals, are identical to those of mineral water.

All thermal waters are natural mineral waters, but not all natural mineral waters are thermal waters.

However, their chemical composition varies greatly depending on the location from which they are extracted. This variability depends on the nature of the soils through which the water travels, which determines the minerals and trace elements it contains. If a mineral water and a thermal water are extracted from the same source, it can be assumed that they offer similar benefits. But this remains a hypothesis, due to the lack of scientific validation for mineral waters available in supermarkets. The properties of thermal waters, on the other hand, are well documented. These can be classified into different categories based on their chemical composition and have several virtues for the skin. Thermal waters are especially praised for their soothing, anti-inflammatory, and healing properties, particularly beneficial for sensitive skin. These virtues, derived from their mineral concentration, have been confirmed in numerous studies, conducted in vivo and in vitro.

One such study was conducted on 18 children with atopic dermatitis, 18 children without skin problems, 39 adults suffering from psoriasis, and 39 control adults. These volunteers underwent a three-week thermal cure, consisting of daily showers and thermal water spray baths for twenty minutes. Skin samples were taken before and after this period. After analysis, the scientists noted a significant decrease of 36.3% in interleukin-8 levels in the skin of children with atopic dermatitis. At the beginning of the study, this inflammatory marker was nearly seven times higher than in the skin of the controls. The SCORAD of children with atopic dermatitis, a tool used to assess the severity of eczema, also decreased by half. Similar results were obtained for the volunteers suffering from psoriasis, who saw their IL-8 levels halved.

The conclusions of several other studies are presented in the table below.

Origin of Thermal WaterCompositionProperties of Thermal WaterTherapeutic Use
Lavour (France)Bicarbonate / Calcium / Magnesium / Silica / Sulfate / Chloride / Potassium / SodiumAntioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, soothing, anti-itch, moisturizingAcne, atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, skin dryness, itching
Grindavik (Iceland)Chloride / Sodium / Potassium / Calcium / SilicaAnti-inflammatory, barrier function enhancement, unifyingDry skin, photoaging, psoriasis
Comano-Trentino (Italy)Bicarbonate / Calcium / Sulfate / MagnesiumEnhancement of cellular regeneration, anti-inflammatory, healingDry skin, psoriasis, damaged skin
Dead Sea (Israel)Magnesium / Calcium / Potassium / Sodium / Strontium / Chloride / BromineAnti-inflammatory, moisturizingEczema, Psoriasis
Idanha à Nova (Portugal)Bicarbonate / Silicate / Sodium / Magnesium / Calcium / PotassiumAnti-itch, soothing, moisturizing, anti-inflammatoryDry skin, eczema, psoriasis
Main findings from scientific studies on thermal waters.
Source: ARAUJO A. et al. Thermal Spring Waters as an Active Ingredient in Cosmetic Formulations. Cosmetics (2023).

The cosmetic use of mineral water appeals due to its minimalism and accessibility, but its effectiveness remains uncertain. Although rich in trace elements, mineral waters do not benefit from rigorous clinical studies that support the benefits of thermal waters, which limits conclusions about their cosmetic potential.

Moreover, completely replacing cosmetic care with mineral water is insufficient to meet the skin's needs. Indeed, mineral water, or even thermal water, cannot replace a moisturizing cream, which helps to replenish the skin's lipids and seal in its hydration thanks to the emollients it contains. Furthermore, to prevent damage caused by UV rays, sun protection remains essential. Thermal or mineral waters indeed offer no protection against the sun's rays, which are responsible for accelerating skin aging, the appearance of brown spots, and even melanomas.

As for the idea of a partial replacement, such as substituting serums with mineral water, its effectiveness depends on each individual's specific needs. For those whose skin does not present any particular issues, this minimalist approach might be suitable. However, for those who use serums targeting specific concerns, such as excessive sebum production or redness, mineral water will likely not be sufficient to achieve the desired results.

Thus, while mineral water may potentially replace lotions and serums for those without skin issues, it cannot substitute for a skincare routine.

Sources

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