Moringa oil for preventing photoaging?

The sun is one of the primary causes of skin aging. Referred to as photoaging, its impact accounts for nearly 80% of total skin aging.

The impact of UV rays on the skin is multifaceted and manifests at the macroscopic level as skin laxity, wrinkles, pigmented spots, and sometimes vascular disorders. UV rays notably cause an increase in the expression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMP), enzymes known to degrade collagen and elastin, thereby weakening the structure of the dermis. Furthermore, UV rays generate an excess of free radicals in skin cells, unstable compounds responsible for oxidative damage to skin components (proteins, lipids, and DNA). It's also worth noting that epidermal melanocytes are highly vulnerable to oxidative stress, leading to excessive and disorganized production of melanin.

Thanks to its richness in antioxidants, particularly beta-carotene, quercetin, campesterol, and vitamin E, the moringa vegetable oil can help protect the skin from oxidative stress. The double bonds present in the chemical structure of these compounds allow them to neutralize free radicals by donating an electron before they attack cellular components. It has also been shown that moringa oil can prevent lipid peroxidation, that is, the degradation of cellular membrane compounds and sebum, a phenomenon that affects the skin barrier.

A study in vitro conducted with human keratinocytes has recently highlighted the photoprotective potential of the moringa oil. To induce a situation of oxidative stress, hydrogen peroxide was added to the culture medium. Some cells were pre-treated with moringa oil (50–400 μg/mL) and the percentage of reactive oxygen species (ROS) was measured. The results show a dose-dependent photoprotective effect of the vegetable oil. The addition of 100 μg/mL reduced ROS generation by 17% while the addition of 400 μg/mL allowed a decrease of 36%.

Studies conducted on rats have confirmed the benefits of moringa oil in preventing photoaging and have further elucidated the mechanism involved. A cream containing 1 or 6% moringa oil was applied to their backs before exposing them to UVB radiation (500 mJ/cm2 ). The skin tissues were then analyzed and the expression of superoxide dismutase (SOD) and catalase (CAT), antioxidant proteins also found in humans, was quantified. The results are compiled in the table below and show that the prior topical application of moringa oil helped stimulate the activity of these enzymes, thus protecting the skin from oxidative stress.

Another interesting property of moringa oil in preventing photoaging is its anti-inflammatory action. Indeed, the sun is a significant factor in skin inflammation. It triggers, among other things, the release of pro-inflammatory cytokines in skin cells. These molecules, by damaging cellular constituents, contribute to skin aging. Several clinical trials have shown that topical application of moringa oil can reduce skin irritations. Mechanistic studies have also highlighted that this botanical extract works by reducing the production of interleukin-1β and 8 (IL-1β and IL-8), TNF-α, and macrophage inflammatory proteins β (MIP-β), which are pro-inflammatory cytokines.

Finally, it is noteworthy to mention that moringa oil, like some vegetable oils, possesses a Sun Protection Factor (SPF). Indeed, a recent study conducted by MARTINIAKOVA in 2021 measured the protection index of this oil through in vivo and in vitro tests using the ISO 24444 method, an international standard for SPF testing. An SPF value of 2.9 ± 0.6 was measured in vivo and another of 0.071 ± 0.002 was measured in vitro. Although moringa vegetable oil recorded an SPF, it is not sufficient to replace sunscreen. To limit cellular damage, it is universally recommended to favor SPFs of 30 or more.

The key takeaway : Moringa oil alone cannot provide sufficient sun protection. However, its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties make it an ally in slowing down photoaging.