What is the phytochemical composition of moringa oil?

The moringa oil is primarily composed of oleic acid, a monounsaturated fatty acid that belongs to the omega-9 family. This compound, which makes up 70 to 80% of the oil, is also naturally present in the hydrolipidic film, the protective mantle that shields the skin and scalp from external aggressions. Oleic acid is largely responsible for the moisturizing and softening properties of the moringa oil.

Furthermore, several studies have shown that oleic acid is an effective anti-inflammatory, capable of downregulating the release of certain pro-inflammatory cytokines and inhibiting the activation of NF-kB, a mediator of inflammation expression. Due to these various mechanisms, this fatty acid holds real interest in cases of skin irritation.

Moringa oil is also a good source of saturated fatty acids, such as arachidic acid, behenic acid, palmitic acid, and stearic acid. Together, these various compounds account for 15 to 30% of the total composition of the oil. The fatty acids in moringa oil have a film-forming action that allows them to strengthen the hydrolipidic film. Stearic acid also has the unique characteristic of being part of the stratum corneum. A lack of stearic acid can destabilize the stratum corneum and increase water loss, which weakens the skin's water balance. Therefore, an external supply may be relevant.

The saturated fatty acids in moringa oil play a crucial role in protecting the skin from various environmental factors and maintaining its hydration. Partly due to their action, moringa oil is an interesting ingredient for dehydrated skin.

A small fraction (≈ 1%) of polyunsaturated fatty acids can be found in moringa oil, primarily in the form of linoleic acid. As a natural constituent of cell membranes, this omega-6 contributes to the maintenance of the skin's impermeable barrier and to the lipid organization of the stratum corneum. Indeed, it is essential for the synthesis of acylceramides, a specific type of ceramide resulting from an amidation reaction between a sphingoid base and linoleic acid. The nourishing virtues of moringa oil are partly due to the linoleic acid it contains.

Furthermore, linoleic acid is a precursor in the synthesis pathways of several molecules involved in neoangiogenesis and dermal regeneration. It thus participates in the skin repair process and gives moringa oil its healing properties.

Well-known for its antioxidant properties, the vitamin E ensures the stability of moringa oil against oxidation and acts as a free radical scavenger. Thanks to the free hydroxyl function carried by its aromatic cycle, this molecule can capture these unstable species and stabilize their chemical structure by providing them with the missing electron. The anti-radical action of vitamin E not only protects moringa oil. It also helps to preserve skin cells from oxidative stress, the primary factor of photoaging. Vitamin E is also useful in the hair care field as free radicals weaken hair fibers, hastening their fall and the appearance of white hair.

Moringa oil also contains carotenoids, more specifically β-carotene, a plant pigment. Useful for prolonging tanning, β-carotene is also recognized for its antioxidant properties, due to its chemical structure rich in double bonds. Similar to vitamin E, this pigment traps free radicals before they can attack skin components. β-carotene is also said to have photoprotective properties. It's true that these have been demonstrated in several in vitro studies, but in topical application, the concentration needed to obtain these benefits is much higher than that found in moringa oil.

In addition to vitamin E, the unsaponifiable part of moringa oil contains phytosterols. Among them, we notably find β-sitosterol, campesterol, stigmasterol, and avenasterol. These various plant sterols are primarily known for their hygroscopic properties, that is, their ability to capture and retain water in skin cells. However, their cosmetic benefits do not stop there. The aromatic structure of phytosterols also gives them antioxidant power, useful for preventing damage caused by oxidative stress to cell membranes and for preserving the integrity of skin tissues. Moreover, various studies have highlighted that phytosterols could act on the growth factor of fibroblasts, responsible for the secretion of collagen and elastin, proteins essential for the formation of scar tissue.

The phytosterols in moringa oil also have anti-inflammatory properties, demonstrated by their ability to inhibit the activation of NF-κB and activator protein 1 (AP-1), pro-inflammatory transcription factors. They also reduce the activity of collagenase, the enzyme responsible for the breakdown of peptide bonds in collagen and its degradation, and have bactericidal and bacteriostatic activity against certain microorganisms such as Enterobacter cloacae and Escherichia coli.

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• MOWA C. & al. Moringa oleifera and inflammation: a mini-review of its effects and mechanisms. Acta Horticulturae (2017).

• JUNIOR D. & al. Moringa oleifera seed oil: A review. Journal of Research in Agriculture and Animal Science (2021).