Polyglutamic acid is a biopolymer that can form a film on the surface of the skin, which keeps moisture in the skin. It gives the epidermis a plumper appearance and smooths wrinkles and fine lines. We are introducing you to this active ingredient with its numerous benefits against the signs of time.
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Polyglutamic Acid – An Active Ingredient That Prevents and Smoothes Wrinkles.
Summary
- Skin Aging: How Does It Happen?
- Polyglutamic Acid – A Brief Overview
- The Effect of Polyglutamic Acid Against Wrinkles
- Sources
Published December 20, 2021,
updated on March 1, 2024,
by
Maylis, Chemical Engineer
—
4 min read
Skin Aging: How Does It Happen?
Even though it is an irreversible phenomenon, skin aging can be slowed down with a wise beauty routine that is tailored to each skin type.
Skin aging is due to intrinsic factors, such as a lower rate of cell renewal, a change in the composition of the dermis and the molecules that compose it (hyaluronic acid, collagen...), and the breakdown of fatty and muscular tissue that no longer perform their supportive function. However, extrinsic factors that depend on the lifestyle of the affected person can significantly accelerate the process (poor diet, smoking, excessive alcohol consumption, sun exposure, stress, lack of sleep...).
As a result, wrinkles deepen, the skin becomes drier, pigment spots and dilated vessels may appear. In addition, the epidermis changes, becoming thicker or thinner depending on the person. However, it is possible to slow down the aging process of the skin by improving one's lifestyle and/or adjusting one's skincare routine accordingly. Polyglutamic acid is an important ally in preventing the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines.
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Polyglutamic Acid – A Brief Overview
It is composed of chains of glutamic acids. Traditionally, this acid was known for its nutritional properties. In fact, it is the main ingredient of Nattô, a traditional Japanese dish based on fermented soybeans.
In recent years, several studies have looked at the moisturizing properties of polyglutamic acid. It acts as a film-forming agent by creating a protective barrier at the epidermal level. This active ingredient is included in an increasing number of moisturizing products for dry skin and/or to prevent the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines.
In a cosmetic formula for the skin, polyglutamic acid is generally added with a percentage between 0.3 and 3%. These concentrations should not be exceeded, as an overdose of this acid can weaken skin tissue and promote the appearance of redness. Therefore, it is not recommended to use it alone. Since it is an acid, an elbow test is recommended before each application. If you have intolerances, you should not use care products containing polyglutamic acid.
The Effect of Polyglutamic Acid Against Wrinkles
Polyglutamic acid is a well-known active ingredient in cosmetics that effectively combats skin aging. Its mode of action is based on two main functions:
Form a film on the surface of the skin
This protective film protects the epidermis from external influences and moisture loss. Polyglutamic acid is a biopolymer that can absorb water and form a microgel that moisturizes the surface of the skin. Its ability to bind water is five times greater than that of hyaluronic acid. In addition, one study demonstrated its ability to increase skin elasticity more significantly than collagen and hyaluronic acid when applied topically.
Inhibition of the action of the enzyme hyaluronidase
This enzyme is responsible for the breakdown of hyaluronic acid. As a reminder, hyaluronic acid is a molecule produced mainly by fibroblasts of the dermis (deep layer of the skin). Thanks to its remarkable moisturizing properties, hyaluronic acid acts like a sponge and binds water; thus, it hydrates the skin and makes it look plump. Over the years, not only does its content decrease, but its quality also changes. Every decade, we lose about 6% of hyaluronic acid. Thus, by the age of 50, the supply of hyaluronic acid has decreased by 50%. This drastic decrease leads to atrophy of the fat pockets in the depth of the dermis, which are responsible for the formation of wrinkles and fine lines on the surface of the skin. Thus, by inhibiting the activity of the enzyme hyaluronidase, polyglutamic acid prevents skin dehydration and the appearance of signs of aging.
Sources
ORTONNE J. P. & al. Le vieillissement cutané et sa prévention. Presse Médicale (2003).
GOLDMAN D. M. & al. Polyglutamic acid: a novel peptide for skin care. Cosmetics Toiletries Magazine (2007).
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