PE(-) skin typology: what are its characteristics?

Cutaneous aging: PRONOUNCED

Oxidation factors: EXPOSED

Sebum production: LOW (-)

In the PE(-) typology, the letter P denotes the visible and well-established signs of aging. This evolution is explained by a set of biological mechanisms: a progressive decline in the synthesis of collagen and elastin, fragmentation of existing fibers, loss of hyaluronic acid, and alteration of epidermal lipids. With age, fibroblasts become less active, their ability to produce a dense, functional extracellular matrix diminishes, and the quality of the dermis is altered. The skin gradually loses elasticity and resilience, which promotes the appearance of pronounced wrinkles and visible skin laxity.

This phenomenon is also amplified by internal processes, such as glycation, which stiffens collagen fibers, and by low-grade chronic micro-inflammation, which accelerates structural alterations. In PE(-) skin, these transformations often manifest as deep wrinkles, loss of density, a less even skin texture, and reduced skin radiance. The epidermis becomes thinner, less able to retain water, which further accentuates the visibility of skin aging.

In a PE(-) profile, the letter E indicates that the skin is repeatedly exposed to pro-oxidant factors: UV radiation, air pollution, smoking, chronic stress or inadequate sun protection. These various elements increase the production of free radicals, unstable molecules capable of directly interacting with membrane lipids, structural proteins, and DNA. When these free radicals exceed the skin’s natural antioxidant defenses, an imbalance occurs: this is oxidative stress. This process gradually impairs the cohesion of the epidermis, weakens the extracellular matrix, and accelerates skin aging.

This repeated exposure to oxidative factors to which PE(-) skin is subjected combines with an already weakened skin structure due to established signs of aging.

The symbol “–” indicates that the sebaceous glands of the dermis produce little sebum, yet essential for maintaining the integrity of the skin barrier. Indeed, the sebum is not just an oily film on the surface: it is a blend of complex lipids (squalene, fatty acids, triglycerides, wax esters) that contributes to the formation of the hydrolipid film, an important component of skin biology that helps limit water evaporation from the stratum corneum and protect the skin from external aggressors. When the film is insufficient or compromised, the stratum corneum loses cohesion, intercellular lipids are depleted, and barrier function becomes more permeable. This increased permeability favors the penetration of environmental irritants and water loss.

In a PE(-) profile, this low sebum secretion intensifies vulnerabilities already linked to the signs of aging and oxidative stress. The lipid deficiency slows the skin’s natural repair processes, leaving it less equipped to withstand external stressors such as wind, cold, or pollution. Visually, this results in a finer texture, a surface that can feel rough in places and a tendency toward fine dehydration lines that are more pronounced, compounding deeper wrinkles.

PE(-) skin requires a skincare strategy that reinforces its skin barrier, neutralizes oxidative stress, and helps mitigate the signs of aging.

In the morning, the priority is to protect the skin. This is achieved by supplying active ingredients that limit oxidative processes and strengthen its hydrolipidic film. A very gentle cleanser first removes overnight sweat while preserving the skin’s already minimal sebum. The application of an antioxidant serum, containing for example vitamin C or ferulic acid, helps reduce the impact of free radicals to which PE(-) skin is particularly exposed. Next comes a cream containing biomimetic lipids, such as ceramides, or squalane, to rebuild the cohesion of the skin barrier. Finally, a daily sunscreen is essential to limit oxidation caused by UV rays.

In the evening, the routine focuses more on deeply nourishing the skin and combating signs of aging. After removing makeup, for example with a cleansing oil, a treatment that preserves the skin’s lipids, and a gentle cleanse, for example with a ultra-rich dermatological cleansing bar, particularly useful for cleansing the skin without drying it out, the skin is then ready to receive treatments. This is the time to apply a hydrating serum, which may contain hyaluronic acid or glycerin, and a firming treatment, perhaps based on retinoids or peptides. Finally, a rich cream helps lock in hydration and promote the skin’s nighttime regeneration.