Which combinations of active ingredients are beneficial when paired with squalane?

The hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring molecule in the skin, recognized for its exceptional ability to retain water—up to 1,000 times its weight depending on its molecular size. It maintains skin elasticity and firmness while contributing to the cohesion of the extracellular matrix. However, with age or environmental stressors, its concentration in the skin decreases, leading to reduced elasticity and hydration. That is why an external supply of hyaluronic acid may be beneficial.

Although no studies have specifically examined the synergy between squalane and hyaluronic acid, data from similar formulations indicate that their combination is complementary. Squalane, as an emollient, forms a protective film on the skin’s surface that limits water evaporation and supports the skin barrier. Hyaluronic acid, meanwhile, functions upstream as a humectant: it attracts and retains water in the superficial layers of the epidermis. This combination is suitable for all skin types, especially dehydrated, compromised, or mature skin.

When used together, hyaluronic acid and squalane provide complete skin hydration: hyaluronic acid attracts moisture while squalane locks it into the epidermis.

The collagen is an essential structural protein of the skin, providing firmness, elasticity, and strength. When applied topically, collagen does not penetrate deeply because its molecular size is too large to cross the skin barrier. Instead, it forms a protective film on the skin’s surface, limiting water loss. However, some studies suggest that hydrolyzed collagen peptides, being smaller, may partially cross the stratum corneum and stimulate the skin’s own collagen production.

Although no study has investigated the association between squalane and collagen in topical applications, their overall effects are similar and both support the hydrolipidic film. Moreover, they demonstrate excellent skin tolerance and present no formulation compatibility issues.

The vitamin C is a key active ingredient in cosmetics, recognized for its antioxidant properties, its ability to stimulate collagen synthesis and its role in evening out skin tone and reducing signs of skin aging. When applied topically, it helps protect the skin against free radicals and supports extracellular matrix regeneration. Vitamin C can also enhance skin radiance and diminish the appearance of pigmented spots.

Although no direct study has investigated the squalane–vitamin C combination, research on squalene, structurally very similar to squalane, suggests that their association may deliver synergistic benefits. One study evaluated a vitamin C–squalene bioconjugate applied to human skin explants for 10 days. The results revealed that this combination significantly enhances vitamin C penetration into the skin and its biological effects.

This study shows that combining with a lipid such as squalene improves vitamin C stability and penetration, enabling an increase in epidermal thickness and enhanced production of type III collagen and TIMP1, having a protective effect on the extracellular matrix of the dermis. It can be assumed that squalane, which has a chemical structure similar to that of squalene, could play a similar role, although further scientific studies are needed to confirm this.

Squalane and vitamin C are both present in our tinted serums.

Vegetable oils, such as sweet almond oil, rosehip oil or even olive oil, are rich in fatty acids, such as linoleic acid, and are recognized for their emollient, nourishing, and protective properties. They help maintain skin hydration, strengthen the hydrolipidic film, and support the skin barrier, benefits that mirror those provided by squalane. There is no incompatibility between squalane and vegetable oils: when combined in a formulation, they can act synergistically to nourish the skin, improve its suppleness, and protect it against external aggressors.

Our emollient lip oils contain squalane and various plant oils (jojoba oil, plum kernel oil, apricot kernel oil, and sunflower oil).

The glycerin, or glycerol, is a highly effective humectant. Thanks to its three hydroxyl groups (-OH), it can diffuse into the stratum corneum and draw water from the dermis or the environment, thereby helping to maintain skin hydration. It also contributes to improving barrier function by plasticizing the stratum corneum and forming a pseudo-occlusive film, limiting transepidermal water loss and enhancing skin softness. This action is complementary to that of squalane, which nourishes and reinforces the hydrolipidic film. Although no specific clinical study exists on this combination, squalane and glycerin are compatible and can be used together to optimize skin hydration.

Squalane and glycerin are both present in our tinted serums.

Urea is a well-established moisturizing and keratolytic agent in dermatology and cosmetics. It attracts and retains water in the skin, helping to maintain epidermal hydration while promoting the removal of dead cells from the skin’s surface. These properties make it a particularly useful active ingredient for dry or rough skin, which requires both nourishment and support for skin renewal. When combined with squalane, which nourishes and reinforces the skin’s hydrolipidic film, urea can contribute to effectively restore comfort and hydration in dry skin.

A study evaluated the effect of an emollient combining squalane, ceramides, and 5% urea on the skin barrier of elderly individuals suffering from severe xerosis. 21 participants over the age of 60 applied the cream to one forearm for 28 days, using the other forearm as an untreated control. After this period, skin assessments showed a notable improvement in hydration, barrier function, and overall skin condition in the treated area compared to the control, illustrating the benefit of combining squalane and urea for dry, fragile skin.

The retinoids, whether they are retinol, retinaldehyde, or retinoic acids, are recognized actives in dermatology for their effects on skin regeneration, wrinkle reduction, improvement of pigmentation spots, and minimization of imperfections. However, some retinoids can cause irritation and skin dryness during initial use or at high concentrations. Combining squalane, a deeply nourishing lipid, with a retinoid-containing treatment helps mitigate the drying effects of retinoids, while still enjoying their numerous benefits.

The bakuchiol is a plant-derived active ingredient known for its effects on wrinkles, imperfections, and pigmentation spots. Because it is lipophilic, bakuchiol is incorporated into the oil phase of formulations, making it perfectly compatible with squalane. The combination of these two active ingredients thus allows the nourishing and protective effects of squalane to be paired with the regenerative properties of bakuchiol.

A study evaluated the efficacy of a skincare treatment combining bakuchiol and squalane in 30 volunteers with visible signs of skin aging. Participants applied the product twice daily for eight weeks, and multiple skin parameters were measured before and after application: hydration, elasticity, and wrinkle appearance. The results show a notable improvement in hydration and elasticity, as well as a visible reduction in wrinkle depth.

These results confirm that bakuchiol and squalane can be synergistically combined.

Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), such as glycolic acid, lactic acid or even mandelic acid, are often used for their exfoliating properties and their ability to stimulate cellular renewal and improve skin texture and radiance. By promoting the shedding of dead skin cells, they also help smooth the skin’s surface and reduce pigmentation spots and fine lines. Although there is no specific study on the synergy between squalane and AHAs, these two ingredient classes are compatible. Their combination can even be beneficial, as squalane helps to counteract dryness and irritation that AHAs can sometimes cause, particularly after exfoliation.

The salicylic acid is a liposoluble beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) known for its keratolytic, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties. It works by gently exfoliating the skin’s surface while penetrating into pores to dissolve excess sebum and impurities, making it a benchmark active for skin prone to blemishes and blackheads. As with AHAs, no research has investigated the potential synergy between squalane and salicylic acid. However, these two actives are not incompatible, and it is reasonable to think that squalane could help reinforce the skin barrier and counteract dryness that salicylic acid can sometimes cause, thereby improving its tolerability.

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