Bienfaits de l'huile de figue de Barbarie pour la peau

How does prickly pear seed oil benefit the skin?

Also known as the cactus pear, the Barbary fig grows on a cactus native to Mexico. It is renowned in cosmetics for its rich biochemical composition, which gives it excellent properties when applied topically. But what exactly are the benefits of Barbary fig oil for the skin? Discover them by reading this article.

Benefit #1: Prickly pear seed oil is a nourishing plant-derived oil.

The primary quality of prickly pear oil lies in its ability to support the skin’s barrier function. Rich in fatty acids, particularly linoleic acid, it enhances cohesion among the cells of the stratum corneum and reduces skin dehydration. Indeed, linoleic acid is an omega-6 fatty acid with strong affinity for the intercellular lipid cement of the stratum corneum. It can insert into this matrix and reinforce its integrity, thereby preventing water evaporation.

A substantial proportion of oleic acid is present in Barbary fig seed oil, an unsaturated fatty acid with film-forming properties. More specifically, oleic acid allows the oil to form a protective veil on the surface of the epidermis, similar to the naturally present hydrolipidic film but which can be impaired, for example in dry skin or due to external aggressions (UV rays, intense cold…). Barbary fig seed oil thus limits transepidermal water loss and helps protect the skin.

Regular use of prickly pear seed oil is particularly beneficial for dry skin, which is often prone to tightness.

Benefit #2: Prickly pear seed oil may help firm the skin.

Prickly pear seed oil is often credited with the ability to maintain skin firmness due to its high antioxidant content, particularly vitamin E and phytosterols. These compounds act by neutralizing free radicals generated by UV radiation, pollution, or the intrinsic oxidative stress associated with skin aging. Oxidative stress is known to degrade collagen and elastin, two extracellular matrix proteins in the dermis that contribute to maintaining skin structure. By limiting the oxidation of cellular membranes and epidermal lipids, prickly pear seed oil may help prevent skin laxity. Furthermore, thanks to its nourishing properties detailed above, it protects the skin from external aggressors and dehydration, thereby enhancing its resilience and suppleness.

These antioxidant properties of prickly pear seed oil have been confirmed by experimental data. A study in vivo conducted on 36 rats divided into six groups evaluated the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory potential of several plant oils, including prickly pear seed oil. The distribution of the rats and the protocol followed are presented in the table below.

GroupConditionTreatment
1Normal rats (no inflammation)No treatment
2Carrageenan injectionSaline solution
3Carrageenan injectionReference drug Inflocine (2 mg per paw)
4Carrageenan injectionPumpkin oil (25 μL/paw)
5Carrageenan injectionLinseed oil (25 µL/paw)
6Carrageenan injectionPrickly pear seed oil (25 μL/paw)
Distribution of rats and study protocol.
Source: SAHNOUN Z. et al. The effect of prickly pear, pumpkin, and flaxseed oils on biological mediators of acute inflammation and markers of oxidative stress. BioMed Research International (2020).

The activity of the antioxidant enzymes superoxide dismutase (SOD), catalase (CAT), and glutathione peroxidase (GPx) was then assessed by histochemistry. While group 2 exhibited a marked decrease in this activity, a consequence of inflammation, the rats in group 6, treated with prickly pear seed oil, displayed enzyme levels similar to those of group 1, the control group. This vegetable oil therefore appears able to limit oxidative damage in skin tissues. By reducing oxidative degradation, it could thus preserve collagen and elastin fibers, contributing to maintaining firmer, more toned skin.

Effets de l'huile de figue de Barbarie sur l'activité d'enzymes antioxydantes.
Effects of prickly pear seed oil on antioxidant enzyme activity.
Source: SAHNOUN Z. et al. The effect of prickly pear, pumpkin, and flaxseed oils on biological mediators of acute inflammation and markers of oxidative stress. BioMed Research International (2020).

Benefit #3: Prickly pear seed oil to help combat skin inflammation.

The previously mentioned study was not limited to assessing the antioxidant properties of prickly pear seed oil: it also explored its anti-inflammatory effects. After injecting a 1% carrageenan solution into the rats’ paws to induce inflammation, edema development was monitored at regular intervals over five hours. The results showed that a 25 µL/paw topical application of prickly pear seed oil led to a significant reduction in edema thickness, exceeding that achieved with the reference drug (Inflocine), which served as a comparison.

Évolution de l'épaisseur de l'œdème pendant 5 heures après l'injection de carraghénane dans les différents groupes expérimentaux de rats.
Changes in edema thickness over 5 hours following carrageenan injection in different experimental rat groups.
Source: SAHNOUN Z. et al. The effect of prickly pear, pumpkin, and flaxseed oils on biological mediators of acute inflammation and markers of oxidative stress. BioMed Research International (2020).

Blood analysis confirmed this anti-inflammatory effect. Rats treated with prickly pear seed oil exhibited a decrease in white blood cells and platelets, parameters often elevated during inflammation, along with a marked reduction in inflammatory biomarkers such as C-reactive protein (CRP) and fibrinogen. Although these levels did not reach those of the control group, they were significantly lower than in untreated rats. These findings suggest that prickly pear seed oil may help mitigate cutaneous inflammatory responses by reducing white blood cell recruitment and the production of pro-inflammatory mediators. Further human studies are, however, still required.

Effets de l'huile de figue de Barbarie (groupe 6) sur différents paramètres de l'inflammation.
Effects of prickly pear seed oil (group 6) on various inflammatory parameters.
Source: SAHNOUN Z. et al. The effect of prickly pear, pumpkin, and flaxseed oils on biological mediators of acute inflammation and markers of oxidative stress. BioMed Research International (2020).

Benefit #4: Prickly pear seed oil may accelerate skin healing.

The healing of the skin is a complex process involving epidermal repair, collagen synthesis, and restoration of the skin barrier. Even though it cannot replace a dermatological treatment, prickly pear oil may be of interest in supporting this process. An experimental study conducted on 30 rats evaluated the efficacy of various oils, including prickly pear oil, on superficial burns induced by fractional CO₂ laser. The rats were divided into five groups: a control group (saline solution), a reference group (healing cream), and three groups treated with plant oils (pumpkin seed oil, flaxseed oil, and prickly pear oil), applied daily to the wounds for seven days. The researchers monitored several criteria: overall wound appearance, crust formation, macroscopic healing, histological analysis, and collagen content.

The results show that prickly pear seed oil significantly reduced healing time, with wound area decreased to 0 cm² by day 7, compared to 1.49 cm² in the control group and 0.85 cm² in the reference group. Histological analysis confirmed the benefits of this plant oil, demonstrating a higher collagen content (270.67 ± 7.48 mg/g of tissue) than in the other groups (109.33 ± 9.98 mg/g of tissue for the control group and 124.02 ± 7.48 mg/g of tissue for the reference group). This efficacy is partly attributed to the presence of β-sitosterol in the oil, recognized for its angiogenic activity: it stimulates the expression of factors involved in new blood vessel formation (VEGF, von Willebrand factor), thereby promoting better oxygenation of regenerating tissues.

By supporting collagen production and improving vascularization, prickly pear seed oil could be beneficial for damaged skin, for example during a flare-up of eczema. However, these results still need to be confirmed in human clinical trials.

Évolution de l'apparence des blessures dans les différents groupes de rats (groupe 1 : groupe témoin ; groupe 2 : groupe de référence ; groupe 3 : groupe "huile de citrouille" ; groupe 4 : groupe "huile de lin" ; groupe 5 : groupe "huile de figue de Barbarie").
Progression of wound appearance in the different rat groups (Group 1: control group; Group 2: reference group; Group 3: pumpkin seed oil group; Group 4: flaxseed oil group; Group 5: prickly pear seed oil group).
Source: SAHNOUN Z. et al. The effect of natural extracts on laser burn wound healing. Journal of Surgical Research (2016).

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