Quels ingrédients renferment généralement un masque capillaire ?

What are hair masks formulated from?

Even though there is a plethora of hair masks and thus associated INCI formulas for this type of care, certain categories of ingredients frequently recur in these products. What are they? Elements of the answer in the continuation of the article!

Summary
Published May 31, 2022, updated on February 15, 2024, by Sandrine, Scientific Editor — 6 min read

In short, the hair mask.

This refers to a formula that typically serves to repair hair fibers and protect them from damage. Generally, these hair treatments can be applied before shampooing, on dry hair, or after, on wet hair. However, it is necessary to wait a few minutes post-application before rinsing it out. Moreover, some hair masks are primarily intended for the lengths of the hair, while others are designed for the scalp. In this case, it mainly serves to cleanse this area and regulate the secretion of sebum, which can give the hair a greasy appearance.

The compounds typically found in hair masks.

Hair masks are most often direct emulsions (predominantly aqueous phase, minor oily phase) that come in a creamy or even milky texture. They contain various categories of ingredients.

  • The solvent : Also known as an excipient, it is often thewater, which is most commonly listed first on the INCI list. It dissolves the other compounds present in the formula.

  • Gelling Agents: The thick texture is provided to hair masks through texturizing agents, which are most often synthetic polymers such as carbomers or natural ones like sclerotium gum (INCI name: "Sclerotium Gum"), the xanthan gum (INCI name: "Xanthan Gum") or even the tara gum (INCI name: "Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum").

  • The active ingredients: Generally, those present in hair masks are moisturizing (ex: hyaluronic acid, aloe vera) or repairing (ex: ceramides).

  • Humectant Compounds: The humectant property of an ingredient relies on its ability to retain water molecules due to its hygroscopic power (strong affinity for water). On the market, the potential humectant compounds present in a hair mask are the glycerin, the propylene glycol, polyethylene glycols (PEGs), or even the pentylene glycol. As a reminder, as a precautionary principle, Typology excludes PEGs, as well as propylene glycol from its formulas. The hair mask presented below contains vegetable glycerin.

  • Fatty substances: Hair masks contain vegetable and/or mineral oils, designed to form a film on the surface of the hair and prevent dehydration. As a reminder, Typology excludes all oils derived from petrochemicals from its formulas. The hair mask described below contains avocado oil (INCI name: "Persea Gratissima (avocado) Oil") and mango butter (INCI name: "Mangifera Indica Seed Butter").

  • Emulsifiers: The blending of fatty substances with water is made possible by the presence of surfactants, which disperse oil droplets in the aqueous solution to form a stable emulsion. For instance, in the hair mask, the surfactants used bear the INCI names of "Behenamidopropyl dimethylamine", "Cetearyl Alcohol", and "Stearyl Alcohol".

  • Preservatives: Since hair masks typically contain an aqueous phase, they are susceptible to bacterial growth. To maintain the product's effectiveness and safety, it is essential to incorporate preservatives. For instance, one might find phenoxyethanol. This compound cancause skin allergies, neurological disorders, and effects on reproduction. Moreover, the National Agency for the Safety of Medicines and Health Products attributes side effects such as amoderate to severe eye irritationto this preservative. Given these factors, it is advisable not to choose a hair mask that contains phenoxyethanol. In natural care products, the sodium benzoate is often used as an antifungal preservative. While it is approved for organic use, it is still regulated. The maximum allowed concentration in finished preparations is 2.5% (in acid) for rinse-off products, excluding oral care products, and 0.5% (in acid) for leave-on products. Sodium benzoate (INCI name: "Sodium Benzoate") is the preservative found in thehair mask by Typology.

Note : There are other types of ingredients sometimes present in hair masks, such as synthetic fragrances or essential oils. For instance, our hair mask contains Ho Wood essential oil with a relaxing woody scent, combined with Yellow Mandarin essential oil that provides a subtle fresh fragrance.

Discover our Biomimetic Ceramides 0.3% + Avocado Oil Repair Hair Mask

Composed of98% natural ingredients, this mask deeply nourishes and repairs the hair fiber thanks to the synergy of 3 natural active ingredients:

  • Biomimetic ceramides act like a cement to restructure the fiber and fill in the hair's scales.

  • Mango butter repairs and prevents the occurrence of split ends and reduces breakage.

  • Avocado oil strengthens the roots and stimulates growth.

This mask is suitable for all hair types but is particularly recommended for dry, damaged, and brittle hair. For these concerns, we advise using it in conjunction with the nourishing shampoo with the biolipid complex.

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