What are the benefits of cleansing oil?

The cleansing oil is a product known for its effectiveness in removing makeup and cleaning the skin, including when dealing with water-resistant (waterproof) makeup, long-lasting makeup, or stubborn sunscreen. The effectiveness of this treatment can be explained by its composition rich in fatty substances capable of attracting and encapsulating oily particles present on the surface of the epidermis, such as makeup, sebum, or pollution, which accumulate on the skin throughout the day.

For enhanced effectiveness of the cleansing oil and improved skin cleansing, we recommend following the application of the cleansing oil with a water-based cleanser, to perform a double cleanse.

A study conducted with 20 volunteers recently compared the effectiveness of a makeup-removing oil, an aqueous cleanser, and water in removing both water-resistant and non-water-resistant sunscreen. Before and after cleaning, photos were taken using the VISIA analysis system, a high-definition visualization system that provides highly detailed and accurate images of facial skin. After applying the sunscreen, the volunteers waited for 30 minutes in a room with controlled temperature and humidity (20-24°C, 50%-60%), before being asked to remove the sunscreen by gently rubbing their faces for two minutes with either water only (3.5 L), an aqueous cleanser (0.5 g), or a makeup-removing oil (0.6 g). The residual amount of sunscreen was then evaluated. The results are compiled in the table below.

An aqueous cleanser appears to be sufficient for removing a non-water-resistant sunscreen. However, for a water-resistant sun protection, the use of a cleansing oil is necessary. It can be assumed that these results can be extrapolated to makeup products, such as foundations, eyeshadows, and mascaras. Regardless, this study provides an interesting insight into the effectiveness of cleansing oils.

The cleansing oils, often rich in vegetable oils and fatty acid esters, are also known for their gentleness. Indeed, while traditional cleansers are sometimes accused of weakening the skin's hydrolipidic film, this protective veil made of sebum and sweat located on its surface, most cleansing oils have lipid-replenishing properties and work to strengthen the hydrolipidic film.

A study conducted in South Korea has shed some light on the effects of cleansing oil by comparing it to micellar water. Ten women wearing makeup applied cleansing oil to their left cheek and micellar water to their right cheek. Two hours later, the amount of sebum on their faces was measured using a sebumeter. A value of 205.29 µg/cm2 was obtained for the cheek where the cleansing oil was used, compared to 172 µg/cm2 for the one where the micellar water was applied. It's worth noting that the sebum level was 250 µg/cm2 before the skin was cleaned. The cleansing oil thus had a protective effect on the sebum and, by extension, on the hydrolipidic film, unlike the micellar water. However, this did not result in an increase in sebum synthesis, an important point to highlight for oily skin, which suffers from excessive sebum production.

The ability of a cleansing oil to strengthen or disrupt the hydrolipidic film also depends on the surfactants and emulsifiers found in its formulation. Products containing irritating sulfates, such as sodium laureth sulfate or sodium lauryl sulfate, can destabilize the skin's balance.

Makeup application can effectively enhance the quality of life for patients suffering from atopic dermatitis. However, cosmetics that remain on the skin can exacerbate symptoms, hence the importance of thoroughly cleansing the skin every evening. Not all makeup removers are suitable for atopic skin: some can be irritating and further dry out the skin. Makeup removing oil, rich in fatty substances, could be a solution. This is suggested by a recent study conducted on 35 women with eczema. For four weeks, they used a makeup removing oil instead of their usual makeup remover.

At the end of the four weeks, a significant reduction in skin dryness, scaling, irritation, erythema, and itching was noted. These improvements were accompanied by a significant increase in moisture retention capacity and a significant decrease in transepidermal water loss. However, the corresponding percentages were not disclosed in the study. A dermatologist also evaluated the overall progression of the patients' atopic dermatitis symptoms and noted a slight improvement for 24 of them (69%) and an improvement for 6 (17%). No change was noted for 5 of them (14%) but no worsening was observed.

While it doesn't substitute a treatment, cleansing oil is a gentle and effective option for removing makeup in individuals prone to eczema.

• DRAELOS Z. D. The science behind skin care: Cleansers. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2017).

• LI L. & al. The optimal cleansing method for the removal of sunscreen:Water, cleanser or cleansing oil? Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2019).

• CHANG B. S. & al. Comparative Analysis of Skin Condition after Using Cleansing Oil and Cleansing Water for Removing Facial Makeup. Medico-Legal Update (2019).

• AMNUAIKIT T. & al. Rubber seed cleansing oil formulation and its efficacy of makeup. International Journal of Pharmaceuticals Sciences and Research (2020).

• TAKAGI Y. & al. Rubbing the skin when removing makeup cosmetics is a major factor that worsens skin conditions in atopic dermatitis patients. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2020).

• RAJPOOT H. & al. Formulation And Evaluation Of Herbal Makeup Remover Oil. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences (2024).