What are the dangers of facial exfoliation?

The skin renews itself approximately every 28 days. Biologically, keratinocytes originating from the deep layer of the epidermis referred to as the basal layer, migrate to the superficial layers of the epidermis while accumulating keratin. Once they reach the skin's surface, they have lost their nuclei and are referred to as corneocytes. They then form the stratum corneum which protects our epidermis from external aggressions. Eventually, these dead cells detach (a process referred to as desquamation) and new corneocytes take their place.

About 10 g of dead skin per day is naturally shed by an adult and immediately renewed!

However, this desquamation process can be disrupted by various factors (pollution, stress, hormonal fluctuations...). The corneocytes accumulate on the skin's surface, clogging the pores and dulling the complexion.

This is where the role of exfoliation comes into play. It prepares the epidermis for treatment, deeply unclogs the pores, and stimulates blood circulation. In summary, when performed once a week, it improves the skin texture and its overall appearance.

Note : There are two types of exfoliation: mechanical scrubbing and chemical peeling. The difference between the two lies in the method of action for removing dead cells from the skin's surface. Generally, a chemical peel involves substances called AHA (alpha-hydroxy acids), BHA (beta-hydroxy acids) and PHA (poly-hydroxy acids), while a mechanical scrub removes dead cells from the epidermis through the friction of the skin with abrasive micro-grains.

The primary risk associated with mechanical exfoliation is performing it too frequently (more than once a week) and/or with overly vigorous movements. Indeed, this can cause various skin disorders:

• Induce or exacerbate certain conditions (psoriasis, acne...);

• Disrupting the hydrolipidic film which no longer fulfills its protective role against external aggressions;

• Drying out the skin too intensely can cause redness and tightness.

On the most sensitive skin, a mechanical scrub can even cause micro-lesions. For this reason, chemical peels with fruit acids like those withlactic acid are more recommended for fragile and reactive skin.