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What are the effects of provitamin B5 on eyelashes?

Found in many mascaras and eyelash care products, provitamin B5 is an active ingredient often attributed with strengthening properties, and even the ability to promote eyelash growth. But what is the real story? Here is our analysis.

Summary
Published June 4, 2024, updated on June 4, 2024, by Pauline, Head of Scientific Communication — 3 min read

Provitamin B5: Benefits for Eyelashes?

Essential for eye protection, eyelashes repel dust, pollution particles, and other impurities that attempt to make their way to the eye. However, this is not their only function: the eyelashes also contribute to facial aesthetics. Indeed, when they are thick and full, they can intensify a gaze and make it more attractive. Eyelashes are, however, very fragile. Located 2 millimeters beneath the skin of the eyelids, they can easily fall out and are sensitive to UV rays, harsh products, and temperature changes. Considering their tendency to shorten and thin with age, it becomes clear why it's important to provide them with adequate care to maintain their health for as long as possible.

Currently, scientific literature does not mention any effect of provitamin B5 on eyelashes.

However, even though there are no studies on the benefits of provitamin B5, also known as panthenol, on eyelashes, some evidence suggests that this active ingredient could help care for them. Indeed, it has been shown that provitamin B5 has moisturizing properties when applied to hair and can protect keratin , which makes up the fibers. If this effect has been demonstrated when using a panthenol-based conditioner, it can be assumed that it could be replicated on eyelashes, whose structure is similar to that of hair. Panthenol could thus promote the achievement of beautiful, thick, and voluminous eyelashes.

Furthermore, it is possible that provitamin B5 may promote eyelash growth. Indeed, studies in vitro have shown that this active ingredient could stimulate the action of alkaline phosphatase, a marker of the anagen phase. This is the first phase of the hair cycle, namely the growth phase. Characterized by intense metabolic activity at the bulb level, it results in the formation of keratin, the major constituent of hair and fur. In addition, panthenol would act by reducing the expression of TGF-β1 mRNA, a growth factor that more quickly puts hair follicles into the catagen, or resting phase. To confirm the ability of provitamin B5 to accelerate eyelash growth, it would be interesting to conduct clinical trials.

Sources

  • VELASCO M. V. & co. Protective effect of conditioning agents on hair treated with oxidative hair dye. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2018).

  • LEE S. & al. Dexpanthenol Enhances Cell Growth by Inhibiting Cell Senescence and Apoptosis in Cultured Human Hair Follicle Cells. Current Topics in Molecular Biology (2021).

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