What are the hair-care benefits of panthenol?

The panthenol, or provitamin B5, is an active ingredient commonly used in cosmetic care products. Easily absorbed by the skin, this alcohol derived from pantothenic acid is highly valued for its compatibility with a wide range of ingredients and its mildness. Panthenol is also ideal for relieving sensations of tightness. Indeed, it acts as a humectant to hold water in the scalp’s epidermis, minimizing insensible water loss. Panthenol thus helps maintain the skin barrier, which prevents irritation.

These moisturizing and soothing properties have, moreover, been documented in the scientific literature, including in sensitive‐skin contexts. A clinical study conducted in adults and infants evaluated the effects of a panthenol‐containing emollient on skin hydration. In adults, a single application followed by twice‐daily use for four weeks resulted in a significant and sustained increase in stratum corneum hydration. Raman spectroscopy analyses also revealed a redistribution of water toward the deeper layers of the stratum corneum, suggesting a more profound and functionally effective hydration of the skin barrier. The same results were observed in infants.

Although these findings relate to skin rather than specifically to the scalp, they support the value of panthenol in reinforcing hydration and barrier function—key parameters for maintaining a comfortable scalp that is less prone to irritation.

Furthermore, the provitamin B5 exhibits restorative and wound-healing properties beneficial for caring for compromised scalps. Indeed, several studies have demonstrated that this active ingredient can stimulate fibroblast proliferation, a critical process in new tissue formation and wound remodeling. This ingredient can also upregulate certain genes involved in healing, such as CXCL1, CCL18, and CYP1B1, thereby enabling faster re-epithelialization.

The dandruff is due to excessive shedding of the scalp, most often associated with an imbalance of the skin microbiota, notably a proliferation of yeasts of the genus Malassezia, and a more or less marked local inflammation. Their management relies on the use of active keratolytic agents, such as salicylic acid, which facilitate the removal of scales, and antifungal active ingredients, such as piroctone olamine or ciclopirox olamine, aimed at normalizing populations of Malassezia.

Panthenol cannot be regarded as a genuine anti-dandruff agent, as it exhibits neither antifungal activity nor a keratolytic effect.

However, its moisturizing, soothing, and restorative properties make it a valuable ingredient to include in anti-dandruff formulations. Pro-vitamin B5 can indeed help to enhance the tolerance of anti-dandruff treatments and reduce the itching sensations that may accompany dandruff.

This approach is illustrated by a clinical study conducted with 20 patients presenting with seborrheic dermatitis of the scalp ranging from moderate to severe. Participants were treated for four weeks with a combined regimen of keratolytic and antifungal actives (salicylic acid, piroctone olamine, zinc PCA), supplemented with moisturizing and soothing agents, including panthenol. The results demonstrated a significant reduction in dandruff, itching, and erythema as early as the fourth week, with an overall clinical improvement observed in 80% of patients. Furthermore, the treatment was well tolerated and no adverse effects were reported, likely in part thanks to panthenol.

Each hair fiber is structured into three layers: the cuticle, the cortex, and the medulla. The cuticle, the outermost layer, consists of overlapping flat cells rich in keratin. Proper alignment of these cells is essential to protect the inner layers, prevent breakage, and lend hair its shine and softness. To preserve this structure, it is recommended to apply a conditioner after each wash. Pro-vitamin B5 is one of the active ingredients commonly found in this type of treatment because it has moisturizing and protective properties for the lengths.

The effects of a panthenol-, dimethicone-, and silanetriol-based conditioner were tested on dyed hair tresses. The coloring process can impair hair quality and result in keratin loss from the fibers. This loss was quantified with and without conditioner application. Similarly, styling resistance—defined as the subjective perception of the difficulty or ease with which the hair can be styled—as well as the fibers’ elastic properties were evaluated. The results are summarized in the table below and show a protective effect of panthenol, at least when it is combined with silanetriol and dimethicone.

Note : These protective effects of panthenol are especially beneficial for curly or coily hair, which tends to be more porous and fragile.

It is also believed that panthenol has the ability to accelerate hair growth. Several biological mechanisms are involved, notably the stimulation of alkaline phosphatase activity, a marker of the anagen phase. As a reminder, this phase corresponds to the growth stage of the hair cycle and is characterized by intense metabolic activity. Moreover, according to in vitro studies, provitamin B5 may reduce TGF-β1 mRNA expression, a growth factor that prompts hair follicles to enter the catagen, or resting, phase more rapidly.

A double-blind study conducted with 42 individuals suffering from alopecia showed that applying a shampoo containing salicylic acid (0.2%), panthenol (0.2%), and niacinamide (0.1%) could stimulate hair growth. Indeed, a 10.2% increase in hair density was measured after 24 weeks. It can therefore be cautiously inferred that panthenol contributed to this increase, potentially by acting synergistically with salicylic acid and niacinamide.

Although these preliminary results are encouraging, they should be interpreted with caution given the small number of participants and the combined assessment of several active compounds. Additional studies are necessary before concluding that panthenol truly promotes hair growth.

• LENZ H. & al. A new topical panthenol-containing emollient: skin-moisturizing effect following single and prolonged usage in healthy adults, and tolerability in healthy infants. Journal of Dermatological Treatment (2016).

• VELASCO M. V. & al. Protective effect of conditioner agents on hair treated with oxidative hair dye. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2018).

• ZHANG L. & al. Dexpanthenol in wound healing after medical and cosmetic interventions (postprocedure wound healing). Pharmaceuticals (2020).

• LEE S. & al. Dexpanthenol promotes cell growth by preventing cell senescence and apoptosis in cultured human hair follicle cells. Current Issues in Molecular Biology (2021).

• LEE J. H. & al. Heat-treated Limosilactobacillus fermentum LM1020 with menthol, salicylic acid, and panthenol promotes hair growth and regulates hair scalp microbiome balance in androgenetic alopecia: A double-blind, randomized and placebo-controlled clinical trial. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2024).

• PI L. & al. A cohort clinical study on the efficacy of topical salicylic acid/piroctone olamine dandruff pre-gel and cleanser in improving symptoms of moderate to severe seborrheic dermatitis of the scalp. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2025).