Hyaluronic acid is a molecule naturally found in our skin, but its concentration tends to decrease with age, leading to skin sagging and the appearance of wrinkles. To address this issue, there are numerous cosmetic treatments (serums, creams, masks...) containing this active ingredient at various concentrations. How do you make your choice? What is the most effective concentration? We're here to help you understand better.
What concentration of hyaluronic acid is most effective for the skin?
Published on May 13, 2024, updated on May 13, 2024, by Pauline, Chemical Engineer — 5 min of reading
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Hyaluronic Acid in Cosmetics: What is the Optimal Concentration?
The hyaluronic acid is a glycosaminoglycan of the extracellular matrix of the dermis playing a major role in its metabolism. Highly hydrophilic, this macromolecule can capture up to 1000 times its weight in water, making it a key agent in maintaining the hydration of skin tissues. Due to its moisturizing properties, the hyaluronic acid is widely used in cosmetics. Its concentration in skincare and haircare products is not strictly regulated, however, it is generally incorporated at rates ranging between 0.01 and 3%. In addition to its effects on the skin, the hyaluronic acid has thickening properties for products, making it difficult to formulate beyond 1% and likely to cause pilling.
Regarding the effectiveness of skincare products containing hyaluronic acid, it is not necessarily correlated with the concentration of the active ingredient. Indeed, an independent study conducted in 2011 with 76 volunteers showed that applying a cream with 0.1% hyaluronic acid salts twice daily hyaluronic acid could significantly increase skin hydration (≈ +10%) and elasticity (≈ +20%) and reduce wrinkle depth (≈ -10%).
Furthermore, we compared two non-independent clinical studies, each focusing on the effects of a serum with 0.4% hyaluronic acid and a serum with 3% hyaluronic acid, respectively. The first study involved 52 volunteers who applied the product daily for four weeks. The second study relied on 22 individuals who used the skincare product twice a day for four weeks. The results obtained regarding skin softness and firmness are compiled in the table below. It should be noted that this summary should be taken with caution as it consists of only qualitative observations, made by the volunteers themselves, and not quantified results. Moreover, this is by no means a comparative study between the two serums, as the participants differed from one study to another.
| Hyaluronic Acid Concentration in the Tested Serum | Participants who found their skin to be more supple and soft | Participants who found their skin firmer |
|---|---|---|
| 0.4% | 92 % | 73 % |
| 3 % | 77 % | 59 % |
It would seem that a skincare product containing between 0.1 and 0.4% hyaluronic acid can be just as effective as a product containing 3%. Currently, there is a lack of scientific evidence to assert that a certain concentration of hyaluronic acid is superior to another. Therefore, when choosing your hyaluronic acid product, we advise you not to solely consider the concentration of hyaluronic acid, but also take into account its organoleptic characteristics (texture, viscosity, rate of absorption...) and look at the other ingredients it contains, so that the product can truly address your concern.
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Sources
Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and the Council.
ANDERSEN F. A. & others. Final report on the safety evaluation of hyaluronic acid, potassium hyaluronate, and sodium hyaluronate. International Journal of Toxicology (2009).
PAVICIC T. & al. Effectiveness of cream-based new formulations of hyaluronic acid of varying molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology (2011).
HUSSAIN Z. & al. Hyaluronic Acid, a Promising Skin Rejuvenating Biomedicine: A Review of Recent Updates and Pre-Clinical and Clinical Investigations on Cosmetic and Nutricosmetic Effects. International Journal of Biological Macromolecules (2018).
NIELSEN M. & al. A dermocosmetic formulation containing Vichy volcanic mineralizing water, Vitreoscilla filiformis extract, niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, and vitamin E regenerates and repairs acutely stressed skin. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology (2022).
