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What is the difference between retinol and hyaluronic acid?
Summary
Published December 6, 2022,
updated on February 20, 2024,
by
Stéphanie, PhD, Doctorate in Life and Health Sciences
—
5 min read
Hyaluronic acid or retinol? These are two key elements in cosmetics that have gradually proven their effectiveness, as demonstrated by scientific studies. However, these two compounds differ from each other, and the primary and only distinction between these two active ingredients lies in their mechanism of action on the skin. They will not yield the same expected results, as they do not "correct" the same aspects of the skin. Each of them caters to very specific needs. But then, which is better: retinol or hyaluronic acid? Which one should you choose?
Hyaluronic Acid: Advantages and Disadvantages.
Thehyaluronic acid is a macromolecule that belongs to the group of carbohydrates. It is present in the skin, eyes, skeletal tissues among others, and is naturally generated by the body with an average production of 5 grams of hyaluronic acid per day for an average-sized man. However, over the years, its natural production decreases, gradually leading to less firm skin and the appearance of wrinkles. Studies have found that an external supply through topical application of 0.1% hyaluronic acid can improve the elasticity and hydration of the skin.
However, its effect on the skin depends on its size. Whether small or large, hyaluronic acid does not function in the same way: low molecular weight hyaluronic acid molecules can penetrate the epidermis, while larger ones remain on the skin's surface. Regardless of their size, they will help to improve skin hydration and the appearance of fine lines.
What are the benefits of hyaluronic acid on the skin?
It creates a protective veil on the surface of the epidermis in order to shield the skin from dehydration and elements in the surrounding environment;
It acts as a humectant by drawing water from the dermis to the epidermis. It thus has the ability to bind water molecules and retain them within the skin cells, up to 1,000 times its weight for hydrated and plumped skin;
It stimulates the natural production of hyaluronic acid, effective in restoring skin density and reducing the appearance of premature aging signs;
This is an ingredient well tolerated by all skin types ;
It is non-irritating, non-photosensitizing and non-allergenic.
Are there any drawbacks?
Its function depends on the size of the hyaluronic acid used in the formulation, which is not easy to identify if the information is not explicitly stated;
Even though it is generally harmless, it can in very rare cases cause an allergic reaction manifesting as redness, irritation, tingling...
Benefits and drawbacks of retinol.
The retinol is a type of retinoids, which are compounds derived from Vitamin A. Once absorbed by the skin, retinol is converted into retinoic acid, a compound that acts on skin cells. It has been demonstrated that a concentration between 0.1 and 0.3% is sufficient to have a certain effect on the skin, after three to six months of application at a usage frequency of 3 times per week.
What are the benefits of retinol for the skin?
It boosts the biosynthesis of collagen and elastin by dermal fibroblasts, which helps to reduce the depth of wrinkles and results in more elastic skin;
It activates the process of cellular renewal at the level of the epidermis for a refined skin texture and unclogged pores;
It diminishes the intensity of pigmentation spots caused by the sun's UV rays by regulating the activity of melanocytes through the inhibition of tyrosinase;
It helps to prevent and combat the emergence of blemishes, in addition to fading the marks they leave behind after they disappear.
And the drawbacks?
This refers to a compound with potential irritant properties. Redness, itching, mild sensations of warmth, flaking... some skin types, particularly sensitive skin, may develop a skin reaction following the application of retinol-based skincare ;
Retinol is photosensitizing, meaning that its application makes the skin sensitive to the sun. That's why it must always be paired with a sunscreen.
Diagnostic
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