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When and How Often Can Retinol Be Used?

Retinol is a potentially irritating ingredient that should be incorporated into skin care regimens with caution. However, it has a powerful effect on cell renewal and helps reduce hyperpigmentation and visible wrinkles. Here's how to know when and how often to use it.

Retinol in a Few Words

Retinol is a highly firming active ingredient derived from vitamin A. Thanks to its keratolytic action, it smooths the skin's appearance, reduces the signs of aging and effectively fights pigmentation spots, blemishes and loss of firmness. It is also known for its ability to stimulate collagen and elastin production, resulting in smoother and more elastic skin.

Retinol is a precursor to retinoic acid. When applied to the skin, it is oxidized to retinal and then metabolized to retinoic acid. Retinoic acid is its active form that can effectively fight skin aging.

Nevertheless, it should be used with caution. Even though this active ingredient is now regulated in cosmetics, it is not recommended for sensitive and reactive skin. Due to its exfoliating action, retinol can dry out the epidermis and cause irritation to a greater or lesser extent. It is important to mention that the skin must get used to this active ingredient. If slight redness appears, it is not necessary to stop the application, but you should increase the intervals between applications to every second or even third day.

How and When Can You Incorporate Retinol Into Your Skincare Routine?

Due to the potentially irritating nature of retinol, it is best to start using this ingredient at a relatively low percentage. This way, side effects such as excessive flaking or dry skin can be minimized or avoided. European cosmetic regulations limit the content to 0.3% in an unrinsed cosmetic product. You can start using a skincare product that contains this active ingredient at a concentration of 0.1 or even 0.2%.

In addition, retinol is a photosensitizing substance: it can cause skin irritation after contact with the sun. Therefore, it is best to apply it in the evening before going to bed. The next morning, apply a sunscreen that matches your phototype.
To counteract the drying effects of retinol, it may be beneficial to combine it with a moisturizing ingredient such as hyaluronic acid during your skincare routine. We recommend applying a product with hyaluronic acid before the one with retinol. For example, for smooth, moisturized skin after waking up, you can apply a few drops of our plumping serum with hyaluronic acid and then a hazelnut-sized amount of our firming cream with retinol during your evening beauty routine.

At What Age Can You Start Using Skin Care With Retinol?

Without necessarily being visible, cellular degeneration starts at around 20 years of age; skin aging is initiated. Therefore, it is advisable to care for the skin before the first wrinkles appear. From about 25 years of age, it may be wise to gradually incorporate retinol into your skin care routine. Choose a care product with a relatively small amount of about 0.1%. Because of retinol's antioxidant properties, young skin can fight oxidative stress caused by free radicals to prevent wrinkles. For example, at the end of your evening routine, you can apply the firming face cream with 0.2% retinol to gently start using this active ingredient.

Which of Our Products Contain Retinol?

We have developed five skincare products with retinol that you should only use in the evening.

  • To fight skin aging and prevent skin sagging, the Wrinkles & Fine Lines Serum contains 0.3% retinol. It is formulated with 99% ingredients of natural origin. It is especially suitable for mature skin. We do not recommend its use for sensitive and reactive skin.

  • The Serum for your neck and décolleté consists of retinol (0.2%) and borage oil, known for its firming properties. This care smoothes the skin of the neck and décolleté. It can also be applied locally to other parts of the body.

  • Our firming face cream with 0.2% retinol and tsubaki oil is enriched with firming active ingredients to fight the appearance of wrinkles and make the skin look more firm. It stimulates the production of collagen and elastin fibers to prevent the signs of aging.

  • The firming toner contains 0.1% retinol and Damask rose extract. It is applied after cleansing the skin to rebalance the skin's pH and delay the appearance of wrinkles. It consists of 99% ingredients of natural origin.

  • The serum for wrinkles and blemishes combines the densifying action of retinol (0.3%) with the antibacterial action of bakuchiol (1%) to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and correct blemishes. The plant polypeptides synthesized by endemic Australian plants can interact with retinol to promote the synthesis of type I collagen. In this way, they help to reduce the depth of wrinkles and densify the skin. These peptides also help maintain a thick epidermis, which performs its function as a protective shield against the outside world.

Sources :

  • WANG L. H. Simultaneous determination of retinal, retinol and retinoic acid (all-trans and 13-cis) in cosmetics and pharmaceuticals at electrodeposited metal electrodes. Analytica Chimica Acta (2000).

  • KAFI & al. Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin a (retinol). Archives of Dermatology (2007).

  • QUAN. T. & al. Molecular basis of retinol anti-aging properties in naturally aged human skin in vivo. International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2016).

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