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Association du rétinol avec d'autres actifs.

Retinol: With What Should It Be Paired?

Retinol is the key active ingredient in the fight against skin aging. It stimulates the synthesis of elastin and collagen, the fibrous proteins present in the dermis that are essential for the skin's firmness and elasticity. Potentially irritating, it is not recommended for sensitive skin. It is important to know which other active ingredients it can be combined with to avoid any skin discomfort.

Topics:

Retinol and Hyaluronic Acid.

Retinol belongs to the family of retinoids, derivatives of vitamin A. It is considered to be one of the most important active ingredients in the treatment of the skin and to compensate for the degradation of skin support fibers as well as stimulate cell renewal. It stimulates the production of collagen and elastin. When applied topically, it is metabolized in its acid form, which is particularly active in the fight against skin aging and loss of firmness.

Nevertheless, this compound can be drying, especially for sensitive skins. Therefore, combining it with a moisturizing agent such as hyaluronic acid during your beauty routine can be beneficial. We advise you to apply the hyaluronic acid treatment before the retinol treatment, preferably in the evening because retinol is a photosensitizing substance (it increases the skin's sensitivity to the sun's UV rays).

For example, for a smoothed and moisturized skin in the morning, you can apply a few drops of our hyaluronic acid plumping serum, followed by a dab of retinol firming cream, during your evening beauty routine. This combo is particularly beneficial for mature skin.

Retinol and Ferulic Acid.

Like retinol, ferulic acid has excellent antioxidant properties that allow it to neutralize free radicals generated naturally by the body but also by several external factors such as pollution, tobacco and stress. As a reminder, free radicals are reactive oxygen species that degrade the body's cells and healthy proteins, thus accelerating aging.

These two active ingredients can act in synergy to smooth the skin and prevent the appearance of wrinkles and sagging skin. We recommend that you apply your ferulic acid treatment first. So, during your evening skin care routine, you can first use a product containing ferulic acid such as our Ferulic Acid Antioxidant Serum (3%) and then the Retinol Firming Face Cream (0.2%).

Retinol and Niacinamide.

Niacinamide is a gentle active ingredient that is well tolerated by all skin types. The retinol is more drying and can cause irritations to people with sensitive or atopic skin. The combination of these two active ingredients is normally safe and has several advantages.

Niacinamide makes it possible to fight against the drying effect of retinol and maintains a good rate of hydration in the skin. This is due to its strengthening action on the hydrolipidic film.

The retinol/niacinamide combo is particularly suitable for people with wrinkles and imperfections. Indeed, retinol will stimulate the synthesis of collagen and elastin. The skin will be smoother and wrinkles less visible. At the same time, niacinamide will regulate the production of sebum and inhibit the proliferation of P.acnes, the main bacteria involved in acne outbreaks.

Applied only in the evening, on a clean and dry face, we advise you to first put a few drops of the unifying serum (niacinamide 12%) and then, a few drops of the wrinkles & fine lines serum (retinol 0.3%).

Retinol and Glycolic Acid.

The A.H.A. are organic compounds with recognized keratolytic properties. They allow to exfoliate the surface of the skin and clear up dull complexions. The main AHAs on the cosmetic market are glycolic acid and lactic acid. When combined with retinoic acid, the active form of vitamin A, glycolic acid has been shown to be more effective in reducing blemishes.

However, both retinol and glycolic acid are substances that can dry out the epidermis and potentially cause redness and irritation, especially for people with sensitive or atopic skin. This combination should therefore be avoided if you have sensitive skin.

Retinol and Vitamin C.

Vitamin C is known for its action on pigmentation spots and its lightening power on dull and tired complexions. In the literature, it has been shown that the combination of these two active ingredients in the same product can significantly slow down the skin's aging process.

These two substances can potentially be irritating, so we do not recommend this combination to sensitive and atopic skin.

Retinol and Salicylic Acid.

A study has shown that applying retinol directly after a salicylic acid-based peel can be effective in reducing skin marks related to photoaging (pigment spots, wrinkles and fine lines). Potentially irritating, the combination of these two active ingredients is not recommended for sensitive skin. To take advantage of these benefits, during your evening routine, after cleansing your skin, you can apply the purifying tonic with a cotton pad all over your face before using the Retinol 0.3% wrinkles and fine lines serum.

Retinol and Plant Polypeptides.

Synthesized by plants endemic to Australia, plant polypeptides are able to act in synergy with retinol to promote the synthesis of type I collagen. They thus help to reduce the depth of wrinkles and redensify the skin. These peptides also help maintain a thick epidermis, which plays its role as a shield against the external environment.

These two compounds are present in our wrinkle and blemish serum. This one also contains bakuchiol for its anti-bacterial action. It is composed with 99% ingredients of natural origin.

The Combination To Avoid: Retinol + Benzoyl Peroxide.

Benzoyl peroxide is an active ingredient recommended for the treatment of imperfections. It regulates the production of sebum and inhibits the proliferation of the bacteria involved in acne, Propionibacterium acnes.

It is not recommended to combine these two active ingredients at the same time during your skincare routine because benzoyl peroxide can oxidize retinol and therefore make it much less effective in fighting skin aging. Furthermore, combined, these two substances can cause irritation and dry out the skin excessively.

Benzoyl peroxide and retinol are both photosensitizing (i.e. they increase the skin's sensitivity to the sun's UV rays), so they should be used at night. We advise you to alternate these two active ingredients every other night, to take advantage of their individual effects without combining them at the same time.

Sources :

  • A FOURTANIER & al. Histological evaluation of a topically applied retinol-vitamin C combination. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology (2005).

  • LIN C. B. & al. A novel anti-ageing mechanism for retinol: induction of dermal elastin synthesis and elastin fibre formation. International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2011).

  • NAVALE S. & al. Retinoic acid and glycolic acid combination in the treatment of acne scars. Indian Dermatology Online Journal (2015).

  • QUAN T. & al. Molecular basis of retinol anti-ageing properties in naturally aged human skin in vivo. International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2017).

  • MONTE-ALTO-COSTA A. & al. Topical retinol attenuates stress-induced ageing signs in human skin ex vivo, throughEGFR activation viaEGF, but notERK andAP-1 activation. Experimental Dermatology (2019).

  • Douglas E Kligman, Zoe D Draelos, Combination Superficial Peels With Salicylic Acid and Post-Peel Retinoids, Randomized Controlled Trial, J Drugs Dermatol, (2016).

  • WAN Y. & al. Nicotinamide attenuates aquaporin 3 overexpression induced by retinoic acid through inhibition of EGFR/ERK in cultured human skin keratinocytes. International Journal of Molecular Medicine (2008).

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