Bakuchiol: a natural alternative to retinol?

Several clinical studies have demonstrated the efficacy of bakuchiol and retinol in managing skin imperfections, but none have directly compared them yet, which limits the conclusions. One of these studies evaluated the effectiveness of a 1% bakuchiol formulation versus a salicylic acid–based product in sixty individuals with mild to moderate acne. These participants applied one of the treatments twice daily for six weeks, and their acne severity was assessed using theGlobal Acne Grading System. Another study, conducted in 2009 by NATAKANKITKUL and colleagues, investigated a formulation containing 0.2% retinol compared to a cream with a vitamin C derivative. In that trial, 45 participants with acne applied one of the products daily for eight weeks. The results of both studies, presented below, shed light on retinol and bakuchiol, but a direct comparison is difficult because the effects of these actives on imperfections were not evaluated under the same protocol.

Is bakuchiol as effective as retinol in reducing brown spots?

Bakuchiol and retinol both display interesting properties for diminishing pigmented spots. Bakuchiol acts at multiple levels of the melanogenesis process: it inhibits tyrosinase activity—the enzyme that catalyzes the conversion of tyrosine into melanin—and reduces expression of the TRP-1 and TRP-2 proteins, which are involved in the maturation and stabilization of melanin within melanosomes. Retinol, for its part, exerts an effect on hyperpigmentation via direct and indirect mechanisms. It can inhibit the expression of tyrosinase and of TRP-1 and TRP-2 proteins, thereby slowing melanin production, and it can also influence pigment distribution in the epidermis by promoting a more homogeneous dispersion of melanin granules in keratinocytes.

The aforementioned clinical study, conducted on 44 participants who applied a cream containing 0.5% retinol or 0.5% bakuchiol daily for 12 weeks, also assessed the impact of these formulations on pigmentation. The results demonstrated a significant improvement in skin tone uniformity in both groups, with a slightly greater effect in the retinol group.

Bakuchiol is indeed establishing itself as a plant-derived alternative to retinol and appears capable of addressing the same concerns.

The bakuchiol is overall a milder active ingredient than retinol.

Retinol, despite its well-established efficacy, is frequently associated with adverse effects, such as redness, tingling sensations, increased dryness, and visible skin flaking. These effects are directly linked to its mechanism of action: by binding to nuclear RAR (Retinoic Acid Receptors) and RXR (Retinoid X Receptors), retinol triggers an intracellular signaling cascade that modulates keratinocyte proliferation, cell differentiation, and collagen synthesis. However, this intense stimulation of epidermal turnover can temporarily disrupt the skin barrier and increase transepidermal water loss. This phenomenon is especially observed in sensitive skin, although it can affect all skin types.

In comparison, bakuchiol is generally better tolerated. Although the risk of irritation can never be completely excluded, as with any cosmetic active ingredient, studies report a lower incidence of side effects. The bakuchiol can even be used by individuals prone to rosacea, who often have very sensitive skin. The clinical study mentioned earlier, comparing the efficacy of a 0.5% bakuchiol cream with that of a 0.5% retinol formulation, also examined the tolerance of both treatments and specifically assessed the occurrence of peeling and tingling sensations. The charts below, extracted from the study, confirm the superior skin tolerance of bakuchiol compared to retinol.