What is the source of the distinctive smell of self-tanners?

Many complain about thechemical and acrid smell emitted by self-tanning products. This smell is inherent in the formulation of the self-tanner and comes from the main active ingredient responsible for giving the skin a sun-kissed glow: dihydroxyacetone (DHA). More specifically, it is the Maillard reaction of DHA with the amino acids in the stratum corneum that is responsible for the unpleasant odor so characteristic of self-tanners, releasing volatile and odorous compounds including heterocycles, before chemically creating melanoidins through polymerization.

Is it possible to mask the development of this unpleasant odor?

These odors associated with DHA are almost non-existent today thanks to the advancements made by brands. Some self-tanners have a fairly neutral smell due to odor sensor systems, or masking agents (ex : zinc ricinoleate, etc...). They have the ability to absorb odor molecules. Others add fragrances and essential oils to the formula in order to mask the emanation related to dihydroxyacetone. However, in this case, it is not mandatory to mention the detail of the fragrance in the INCI list, excluding the allergenic substances listed in Annex III of the Cosmetic Regulation. As a precaution, especially for sensitive skin, it is advisable to avoid them.

Our self-tanning formulas do not emit that dreaded smell upon application. No masking agents, essential oils, or fragrances have been added to hide the smell.

While there are other self-tanning molecules (erythrulose, troxerutin...), DHA remains the most effective for local application and therefore the most commonly used. Even though it acts like DHA, erythrulose works more slowly and does not provide the same intensity of coloration. As for troxerutin, when used alone, it does not develop this much-anticipated browning effect. Tyrosine derivatives alone are also not capable of providing a sustained and lasting color to the skin.

The DHA is a sugar that interacts with the amino acids of the corneocytes in the upper layer of the epidermis, thereby generating brown pigments, called melanoidins, on the skin, giving a temporary "tanned" appearance, all without the risks of photodamage (melanoma, brown spots, photoaging, sunburn...).