Which sunscreen should you choose?

Phototype refers to natural sun sensitivity based on skin, eye, and hair color. It affects the risk of sunburn, photoaging, and UV-induced skin damage. Six categories exist, labeled I through VI from lightest to darkest. Phototypes I to III (very fair to medium skin, often with light eyes and blonde or red hair) burn easily and tan little. High protection with SPF 50 or higher is essential from the first sun exposure, even in urban settings. Phototypes IV to VI (medium to dark skin with brown to black eyes and hair) benefit from partial natural protection due to higher melanin levels in their skin. Melanin coats keratinocyte nuclei to form a barrier that shields DNA from the mutagenic and carcinogenic effects of UV.

The average SPF of black skin is 13.4 compared with 3.4 for white skin.

However, this pigment barrier is insufficient to protect people with dark skin, who must also apply sunscreen, with an SPF of at least 30, contrary to common belief. A study of 55 individuals with darker phototypes found that 74% had never used sunscreen, believing it was unnecessary. More prevention is needed, especially for people with dark skin who may assume they are protected from sun exposure.

Each skin needs its own sunscreen. Besides its phototype, we recommend that you take into account the nature of your skin (dry, normal, combination, or oily), a factor influencing the preferred texture. For example, dry skin—its barrier is fragile due to low sebum production—benefits from a rich sunscreen with a significant lipid phase and relipidating and emollient agents. These nourishing textures improve comfort for dry skin and support sunscreen adherence.

In contrast, oily or acne-prone skin should favor lightweight, non-occlusive formulas, such as gels, to prevent comedone formation. Some sunscreens designed for these skin types go further and include mattifying agents. It is important to note that no sunscreen product can be invisible, because the UV filters are lipophilic : they must be dissolved in the formula’s oil phase. An oil phase is essential to ensure effective UV protection.

Beyond skin type, sensitivity matters. Some skin shows redness, stinging, or irritation after applying certain UV filters, such as the para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) or the oxybenzone, and the risk grows with fragrances. Mineral filters—titanium dioxide and zinc oxide—provide options for sensitive skin. They may leave a white cast, which limits use on darker phototypes. To assess finish and tolerance, test sunscreen on a small skin patch, for example inside the elbow or on the wrist. Wait 24 to 48 hours and check for redness or irritation.

Good to know At Typology, we use only UV filters documented for human safety and ecotoxicology.

Choosing a sunscreen can reflect an ethical or environmental concern. Some UV filters have been criticized for potential impacts on aquatic ecosystems, including coral reefs. Among the more debated filters are the octocrylene, oxybenzone and the octisalate. Some studies have shown that these molecules can disrupt coral growth and reproduction, but also cause bleaching by altering the microalgae in symbiosis that support their survival. Although concentrations found in swimming areas vary, several regions, including Hawaii, Palau, and the Virgin Islands, have already banned or restricted some filters considered ecotoxic.

Individuals concerned about these issues can choose sunscreens with a lower environmental impact.