Beard and dandruff: what to do?

Having dandruff in the beard or even in the moustache may be surprising, but this phenomenon is not fundamentally different from that of the scalp. Scales appear when skin cell turnover accelerates or when the yeast Malassezia, which is naturally present on the skin, overgrows. This yeast feeds on the lipids in sebum and can trigger irritation, itching and the formation of small flakes visible in the beard hairs. These may be oily dandruff (white/yellow flakes that adhere to the beard hairs) or dry dandruff (white flakes that fall naturally onto clothing).

Multiple factors promote this proliferation. Sebum production, notably stimulated by testosterone—a male sex hormone—nourishes the yeast Malassezia and exacerbates dandruff issues. External aggressors such as wind, pollution, or cold weaken the skin barrier and can disrupt the cell cycle, thereby increasing the risk of flake formation. Using unsuitable products—too harsh or too rich—or inconsistent cleansing can also contribute to the buildup of dead skin cells and sebum in the beard.

Although the beard is not exactly the same as the scalp, the underlying causes of dandruff remain essentially the same.

Overall, beard dandruff is managed in the same way as scalp dandruff.

It is intended to control fungal proliferation, sebum production, and dead cell buildup on the epidermal surface. There are shampoos specifically formulated for the beard that include anti-dandruff actives, but it is perfectly possible touse regular anti-dandruff shampoos, that is, those originally intended for the scalp. These shampoos can contain various ingredients recognized for their efficacy against dandruff: zinc pyrithione, ketoconazole, the ciclopirox olamine, the piroctone olamine or selenium sulfide. They should be used 2 to 3 times per week, depending on the severity of the dandruff, to effectively reduce flakes. Several clinical studies conducted on the scalp, some of which are presented in the table below, have shown the efficacy of these actives in combating dandruff.

→ Solution No. 1 : Use anti-dandruff shampoos.

Additionally, certain essential oils can be used for their antifungal and soothing properties. Exercise caution, however: they should not be applied undiluted to the skin, as this may cause irritation. Before using them, dilute them in a carrier oil suitable for your skin type. The essential oils considered as natural treatments for dandruff are those of tea tree, lavender, rosemary and Atlas cedar.

Some scientific studies have evaluated the efficacy of essential oils against the microorganisms responsible for dandruff, specifically Malassezia furfur, Staphylococcus epidermidis and Escherichia coli. A recent study conducted in 2022 determined the minimum inhibitory concentrations of various essential oils to evaluate the appropriate dosages for cosmetic application. The results highlight that certain essential oils, such as tea tree oil, Roman chamomile oil, or clove oil, are effective against M. furfur, the primary agent involved in dandruff, while other oils more specifically target bacteria such as E. coli or S. epidermidis.

Note : This data can serve as an interesting starting point for aromatherapy against dandruff. However, avoid blending multiple essential oils in the hope of intensifying their effects, as this can have the opposite result and irritate your skin. Investigate possible synergies in advance and always perform a patch test on a small area of skin before applying an oil more widely.

Another study assessed the efficacy of tea tree essential oil against dandruff. It was a randomized, single-blind trial involving 126 participants with mild to moderate dandruff. Participants used a shampoo containing 5% tea tree essential oil or the same shampoo without the oil daily for 4 weeks. The results showed a significantly greater improvement in the dandruff severity score in the tea tree oil group. Furthermore, statistically significant improvements were also observed in total affected area and itching. No adverse effects were noted, suggesting that 5% tea tree essential oil is both effective and well tolerated for managing dandruff.

→ Solution n°2 : Use essential oils.

Furthermore, it is important to thoroughly cleanse your face each night with a cleanser suitable for your skin type. This helps to remove sebum, impurities, and residues accumulated throughout the day, which can settle in the beard and promote the appearance of dandruff. Additionally, a gentle exfoliation once or twice a week can help eliminate dead skin cells and prevent flakiness. A recent study evaluated the effectiveness of a scalp exfoliation combined with a moisturizing serum in reducing dandruff. The exfoliation included AHAs, BHAs, and PHAs to remove accumulated dead skin cells.

The results demonstrated that after 15 days of daily use, exfoliation using the scrub led to a significant reduction in visible dandruff, with an improvement of more than 60% compared to the start of the study. Simultaneously, scalp hydration was greatly enhanced, helping to reduce dryness and sensation of itchy beard. The study highlights that regular exfoliation, of the scalp or face, helps to remove flakes and prevent keratin buildup, which is an important complement to anti-dandruff shampoos and treatments in managing dandruff.

→ Solution n°3 : Optimize your skincare routine.

• BARNETSON R. & al. Treatment of dandruff with 5% tea tree oil shampoo. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology (2002).

• PIÉRARD G. E. & al. Nudging hair shedding by antidandruff shampoos. A comparison of 1% ketoconazole, 1% piroctone olamine and 1% zinc pyrithione formulations. International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2002).

• GOODE K. & al. A randomised, single-blind, single-centre clinical trial to evaluate comparative clinical efficacy of shampoos containing ciclopirox olamine (1.5%) and salicylic acid (3%), or ketoconazole (2%, Nizoral ) for the treatment of dandruff/seborrhoeic dermatitis. Journal of Dermatological Treatment (2002).

• CHO K. H. & al. Successful treatment of dandruff with 1.5% ciclopirox olamine shampoo in Korea. Journal of Dermatological Treatment (2003).

• SHARIFI-RAD J. & al. Preparation of strong antidandruff shampoo using medicinal plant extracts: A clinical trial and chronic dandruff treatment. Jundishapur Journal of Natural Pharmaceutical Products (2015).

• YUK Y. S. A study on the quantification of the appropriate amount of use of 10 essential oils required to inhibit the growth of dandruff-causing bacteria. Korea Academy Industrial Cooperation Society (2022).

• PATNAIK S. & al. An assessment of the safety, efficacy, and tolerability of a novel scalp treatment regimen combining a hydroxy acid-based scrub and copper tripeptide serum in the management of seborrheic dermatitis in adults. Cureus (2024).