Blue, brown, hollow: how to differentiate between these types of under-eye circles?

Under-eye circles are among the most common cosmetic concerns. They are generally defined as a change in pigmentation or texture of the lower eyelid. This makes the eyes appear sadder and more tired. Under-eye circles should not be confused with bags, which are more akin to swelling of the lower eyelid. There are different types of under-eye circles:

• Vascular or Blue Dark Circles : These are formed due to a slowdown in blood and lymphatic circulation. The blood pigments transported by these routes then accumulate at the level of the lower eyelid and are poorly evacuated, giving a bluish-purple color. The skin in this area being very thin, it easily lets the small blood vessels show through. Although there is a genetic component in the appearance of vascular dark circles, they are closely linked to the lifestyle. Thus, lack of sleep and consumption of tobacco or alcohol greatly increase the appearance of blue dark circles.

• Brown or Pigmentary Dark Circles : These are caused by a high concentration of melanin in the skin around the eyes. This area is quite prone to hyperpigmentation, due to its thin thickness which easily allows the sun's rays to penetrate. These rays stimulate melanogenesis and accentuate the appearance of pigmentary dark circles. Another cause of brown dark circles is the genetics. Indeed, this type of dark circles predominantly affects people with darker skin, producing more eumelanin, a form of dark melanin.

• Hollow or Structural Dark Circles : As we age, the thin layer of subcutaneous fat located at the lower eyelid decreases, leading to a certain skeletalization of the face. This results in the appearance of a shadow under the eyes. Structural dark circles can have a genetic origin or gradually develop over time or after massive weight loss.