Chemical or Mechanical Exfoliation, how to choose your scrub?

Equipped with more or less large grains, a mechanical exfoliation actually refers to the action of applying your scrub in the shower, or not, in which case we talk about dry exfoliation, and rubbing your body or face in circular motions. It clears the pores of impurities that have embedded themselves and thus allows the skin to fully absorb the active ingredients contained in the skincare product. Grain scrubs are suitable for all skin types, if the grains are fine. However, if they are too large and therefore too abrasive, they are then not recommended for damaged skin (dry, sensitive, acne-prone skin).

• The drawbacks of mechanical exfoliation:

When used too harshly on the skin, mechanical exfoliants often end up damaging the hydrolipidic film that protects the epidermis. The overly large grains are not suitable for certain more delicate areas, often causing micro-lesions, invisible to the naked eye, on the most sensitive and reactive skins. Therefore, be careful not to use body scrubs on the face, which are generally equipped with large grains.

• The composition to prioritize:

Grain exfoliants are composed of both oil and a scrubbing substance. The lipid part should come from vegetable oils such as the nourishing body scrub with sweet almond oil or the radiance face scrub with rosehip oil, and not mineral oils as they are very comedogenic. The grains, on the other hand, are gentler when they come from fruit kernels like apricot. We then speak of micro-grains, which allow for gentle skin exfoliation.

Requiring no scrubbing, a chemical exfoliant is simply a scrub whose active ingredients work on the skin, ridding it of dead skin cells and impurities, thus allowing the pores to breathe again. Formulated with enzymes or fruit acids, the chemical or enzymatic exfoliant is both the gentlest and most effective of exfoliants. This type of treatment is applied once or twice a week on clean skin. Gentler than grain scrubs, acid (or enzyme) scrubs are ideal for dry, fragile, or problematic skin. Indeed, the absence of grains makes them gentler and less aggressive for dry or even acne-prone skin.

• The drawbacks of chemical/enzymatic exfoliation:

While they are very gentle and effective, chemical or enzymatic exfoliants require careful use. Available in the form of a lotion, powder, or serum, they all have a specific dwell time to adhere to. If they remain in contact with the epidermis for too long, their active formula can prove to be particularly astringent. That's why they are not recommended for sensitive/reactive skin as they can cause allergic reactions or irritations. However, less abrasive than the glycolic acid exfoliating serum, the gentle lactic acid peeling serum may be better tolerated by the skin. Nevertheless, we still recommend applying the product to the crook of your elbow 24 to 48 hours before a first application on the face, to see if it does not cause any reaction (redness, itching, etc.).

• The composition to prioritize:

In order to find the perfect formula, you must first identify your needs. While salicylic acid has antibacterial properties, thelactic acid on the other hand, boosts hydration and improves skin radiance. Theglycolic acid provides an action against the signs of aging, by stimulating the cellular renewal system and the synthesis of hyaluronic acid.