In dermatology, exfoliation refers to all techniques aimed at removing dead cells present on the skin's surface. Broadly speaking, it denotes the action of peeling off the skin's superficial cells and impurities accumulated on its surface to promote cellular renewal. This process can be mechanical, chemical, or enzymatic. These methods differ in how they work to remove dead cells from the skin's surface.
Mechanical exfoliation.
This type of exfoliation primarily involves a "mechanical" action through circular movements or rubbing during the application of the treatment. This can be achieved through treatments that contain granules, commonly known as scrubs, which lift dead cells from the epidermis. Mechanical exfoliation can also be performed with gloves or brushes applied directly to the skin.
Mechanical exfoliation is precise because, thanks to mechanical movements, it is easier to target the areas to be treated. However, when used too harshly on the skin, mechanical exfoliants often end up damaging the hydrolipidic film that protects the epidermis. Moreover, this type of exfoliation is not recommended for acne-prone skin as manual rubbing can irritate skin that is already inflamed.
Chemical exfoliation or peeling.
Chemical exfoliation does not require scrubbing and relies on the action of acidic molecules that remove dead cells by breaking ionic bonds, thereby destabilizing the horny layer and causing its gradual detachment. Among the active ingredients used, we can mention: glycolic acid or salicylic acid.
Chemical exfoliation can penetrate deeper layers of the skin. This type of treatment is ideal for dry, sensitive, or problematic skin. However, chemical exfoliants should not be left on the epidermis for too long as they may cause irritation or allergies.
The enzymatic exfoliation.
Enzymatic exfoliation differs from chemical exfoliation in the type of exfoliating actives used. This process utilizes fruit acids such as AHAs and BHAs, which act as proteases by breaking down the glycoprotein bonds that connect dead cells to the stratum corneum. This type of exfoliation is gentler than mechanical exfoliation. However, the acids may not be suitable for sensitive and reactive skin types.
Thus, exfoliation refers to the process of removing dead cells from the skin's surface, while scrubbing refers to the treatments used to exfoliate the skin.