The rose is the oldest flower, rich in symbolism. It is known as the queen of flowers. At present, more than 200 species of roses and more than 18,000 cultivars of the plant have been identified. Among the different varieties belonging to the Rosaceae family, the Damask rose, and the rosehip are two species used in various forms in skin care. One difference between rose oil and rosehip oil is that the first is present in the form of essential oil and hydrolate, while the second gives a vegetable oil.
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Damask Rose Oil vs. Rosehip Oil. What’s The Difference?
Summary
- Rose and Rosehip, Different Origins
- Damask Rose Oil vs. Rosehip Oil, Two Different Cosmetic Ingredients
- Rosehip and Damask Rose, Two Allies of Mature Skin
- Rosehip Oil at Typology
- In Which Typology Products Can I Find Damask Rose Oil?
- Sources
Published July 7, 2023,
by
Maylis, Chemical Engineer
—
9 min read
Rose and Rosehip, Different Origins.
Rosehip, (Rosa canina), is a species of thorny shrubs. This exact species is found in the wild in South America, more precisely in the Andean valleys of Chile. Its flowers are white and have 5 to 9 petals.
The Damask rose (Rosa damascena), in cosmetics often just rose, is native to the Middle East (Iran). Today it flourishes mainly in Bulgaria (the world's leading exporter), Morocco and in the mountains of the Isparta region in Turkey. It has been present in France since the Middle Ages, the knight Robert de Brie having brought it back from his crusade in the middle of the 13th century. Unlike the rosehip, the flowers are pink and have more petals.
Damask Rose Oil vs. Rosehip Oil, Two Different Cosmetic Ingredients.
When comparing the Damask rose vs. rosehip, these two compounds differ on two main points:
The production process:
Virgin rosehip oil is extracted by first cold pressing the seeds harvested from the plant's fruits, followed by filtration on cellulose paper. It is presented in the form of an oily liquid of orange red color with a subtle smell of rose. Its touch is rather greasy, and it is very sensitive to oxidation.
The Damask rose oil is obtained following a double distillation by steam distillation. This process has a low yield: 5 tons of petals provide only 1 kg of essential oil. The first distillation is made from the petals. These are placed in a still and then crossed by a steam, which is then cooled in a condenser and recovered in liquid form. On the surface floats the essential oil, less dense than the water used for extraction, which is none other than the hydrolat. The second distillation is none other than the redistillation of the hydrolate of Damask rose obtained previously.
Biochemical composition:
Rosehip oil, like most vegetable oils, contains fatty acids. The most important in proportion are linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid and stearic acid. It also contains carotenoids (all-trans-retinoic acid), vitamins (E and K) and squalene.
The essential oil of Damask rose contains aromatic molecules. It contains mainly monoterpene alcohols (citronellol, nerol, geraniol, linalool). These molecules constitute about 70% of the essential oil, with the majority of citronellol, which can be present up to 50%.
Rosehip and Damask Rose, Two Allies of Mature Skin.
On the one hand, the rosehip oil is recognized for its antioxidant action. Rich in vitamin E, it protects the skin from free radicals. As a reminder, the latter are reactive oxygen species naturally produced by the body. Nevertheless, when cells are confronted with stress, they produce them in an excessive way. There are many sources of stress, the main ones being exposure to UVA rays, pollution, smoking, and a diet rich in fats and sugars. Free radicals are particularly unstable molecules because of their single electron. They tend to react with other molecules to form an electron pair, and then cause damage to cells, DNA and proteins in the body. This accelerates aging and causes wrinkles to appear on the skin's surface. Rosehip oil is therefore an excellent ally in preventing premature skin aging. In addition, the presence of trans-retinoic acid in rose hip oil acts on the overproduction of melanin and attenuates the appearance of pigmentation spots on the surface of the skin that appear with age.
On the other hand, the essential oil of Damask rose is regenerating and firming. The monoterpene alcohols it contains (citronellol, and geraniol) tighten the tissues, thus limiting the sagging of the skin that appears over the years. In addition, researchers have demonstrated its ability to stimulate the expression of the collagen-I gene. In other words, this essential oil is a true tissue and cell regenerator.
Rosehip Oil at Typology.
On the one hand, the rosehip oil is recognized for its antioxidant action. Rich in vitamin E, it protects the skin from free radicals. As a reminder, the latter are reactive oxygen species naturally produced by the body. Nevertheless, when cells are confronted with stress, they produce them in an excessive way. There are many sources of stress, the main ones being exposure to UVA rays, pollution, smoking, and a diet rich in fats and sugars. Free radicals are particularly unstable molecules because of their single electron. They tend to react with other molecules to form an electron pair, and then cause damage to cells, DNA and proteins in the body. This accelerates aging and causes wrinkles to appear on the skin's surface. Rosehip oil is therefore an excellent ally in preventing premature skin aging. In addition, the presence of trans-retinoic acid in rose hip oil acts on the overproduction of melanin and attenuates the appearance of pigmentation spots on the surface of the skin that appear with age.
On the other hand, the essential oil of Damask rose is regenerating and firming. The monoterpene alcohols it contains (citronellol, and geraniol) tighten the tissues, thus limiting the sagging of the skin that appears over the years. In addition, researchers have demonstrated its ability to stimulate the expression of the collagen-I gene. In other words, this essential oil is a true tissue and cell regenerator.
In Which Typology Products Can I Find Damask Rose Oil?
And what does rose oil to your skin? Our firming tonic contains Damask rose extract (a mixture of essential oil and hydrolat) associated with 0.1% retinol, the tensor active par excellence. This lotion with an acid pH like the skin rebalances the skin's pH after each cleansing. Another benefit is, that it also eliminates the limestone residues present in the water during cleansing. Concentrated in firming active ingredients, it attenuates the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, and fights against skin slackening.
To apply it, soak a cotton pad with the firming lotion and then pass it over the whole of your face, previously cleansed, avoiding the eye contour area, in the evening only.
Note: We do not recommend its use to sensitive and reactive skin, as well as to pregnant and breastfeeding women.
Sources :
WINTHER K. & al. The effectiveness of a standardized rose hip powder, containing seeds and shells of Rosa canina, on cell longevity, skin wrinkles, moisture, and elasticity. Clinical Interventions in Aging (2015).
VALERON-ALMAZAN P. & al. Evolution of post-surgical scars treated with pure rosehip seed oil. Journal of Cosmetics, Dermatological Sciences and Applications (2015).
DHANABAL S. P. & al. Design And development of polyherbal based cream formulation with anti-skin ageing benefits. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research (2017).
FAUCON M. Traité d'aromathérapie scientifique et médicale - Les huiles essentielles - Fondements et aides à la prescription (2017).
AHMED Y. & al. Rosa damascene Mill. (Rose): A versatile herb in cosmetology. Tang Humanitas Medecine (2019).
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