Produits avec un FPS.

Which products can contain an SPF?

Sun protection products are essential for shielding skin from UV rays. While sunscreens were the only option on the market, a variety of SPF-equipped formulas are available. Which ones? We review them in this article.

SPF: what is the science behind this concept?

Introduced in the 1960s by Franz GREITER, the acronym FPS stands for “Facteur de Protection Solaire.” In English, it is SPF (Sunburn Protection Factor). In certain French-speaking countries, IP (Indice de Protection) is used. All these acronyms refer to the same value.

SPF is a numerical indicator of a sunscreen’s ability to block erythemal UV rays that cause sunburn.

SPF is expressed on a scale from 2 to 50+, where 50+ represents the highest level of protection. The number after the SPF label indicates the percentage of UV rays that cause erythema blocked. Several factors influence sunscreen protection: UV intensity at a given time and location, skin phototype, sunscreen quantity applied, activities such as swimming, use of certain medications, and frequency of sunscreen application. Therefore, even a high-SPF product must be applied in sufficient quantity and reapplied at recommended intervals to maintain optimal protection.

FPSPercentage of erythemal UV blocked
SPF 2
SPF 15` tags and keep `93,3%
SPF 20… 95%
SPF 30… 96,7%
tags and keeping “98%
SPF 8098,75%
SPF 10099%
Amount of erythemal UV blocked according to SPF.
Source : SILVA DOS REIS V. M. & al. Sun protection factor: meaning and controversies. Anais Brasileiros de Dermatologia (2011)
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Primary sunscreens, the first affected by SPF.

Primary sun protection products aim to protect skin from UV rays. Products with secondary SPF function offer sun protection as a secondary benefit.

Today there is a range of sunscreen products with a primary SPF:

  • Face and body sunscreens : The sunscreens are the most common SPF products. Their texture varies from fluid to greasy depending on the UV filters they contain and the skin types they address. For example, dry skin benefits from a rich formula while combination or oily skin prefers a fluid sunscreen or a gel-cream texture.

  • Sun sticks : Sun sticks are portable products that fit in a bag. They help reapply sun protection during the day or target sensitive areas like lips and tattoos. Note that sun sticks have a rich texture due to high wax and emollients, which can be a drawback for oily skin.

  • Sun protection sprays and mists : Sprays and mists are valued for their convenience and rapid application on large body areas or for midday touch-ups. Their light, airy texture makes them comfortable in summer. However, this format has one drawback: ensuring sufficient coverage can be difficult with a spray. Too thin or uneven an application can reduce the effectiveness of sun protection.

  • Sun milks : With a fluid, water-based texture compared with sunscreen creams, milks are well suited for large body areas and combination to oily skin. Their rapid absorption leaves no greasy residue on the skin surface.

  • Solar oils : Solar oils combine UV protection and a satiny finish on the skin. These oil-based formulas can leave a greasy feel, which may discourage adequate application. For effective protection with a solar oil, apply a generous, even layer.

What are secondary sunscreens?

Awareness of sun protection has increased in recent years. As a result, more products now include an SPF in their formulation, even when their primary purpose is not sun protection. These products are called secondary sunscreens. The most popular are the moisturizers with SPF, which simplify the morning routine by combining hydration and photoprotection. Eye creams with SPF protect this delicate, overlooked area while hydrating it, and lip balms with SPF are available.

In parallel, many color products with SPF have emerged. Foundations and tinted moisturizers include SPF to protect the skin while evening skin tone. Concealers and color correctors may contain SPF, offering localized protection. There are loose or tinted powders enriched with UV filters. Some lipsticks include SPF to protect the lips and add a touch of color. All these products follow a color care approach sought by consumers.

Secondary sunscreens deliver the same level of protection as primary sunscreens because they face the same regulatory tests.

However, the actual efficacy depends on the amount applied. In practice, you rarely apply as much moisturizer or foundation as sunscreen. To reach the protection level on the label, use 2 g/cm² of product on the skin. To protect yourself from the sun, we recommend layering a primary sunscreen with one or more secondary sunscreens. Additional sun protection measures (seeking shade, covering up with clothing...) should also be followed.

Key points to remember:

  • SPF (Sun Protection Factor) measures a product’s ability to protect skin from UV rays that cause sunburn.

  • There is a wide range of primary sun care products (creams, sticks, sprays, lotions, and oils), which are formulated to protect the skin from UV radiation.

  • Secondary sunscreens (moisturizing creams, foundations, lip balms…) provide additional protection against UV radiation, even if that is not their primary purpose.

  • To ensure the efficacy of a product with SPF, apply a sufficient amount of product, about 2 mg/cm² of skin.

Sources

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