The L-carnitine is a molecule naturally present in the body, primarily known for its role in energy metabolism by facilitating the transport of fatty acids into the mitochondria. However, in recent years, the L-carnitine has also attracted growing interest in the cosmetic field for its ability to help oily skin as well as for its potential effects on skin firmness and quality. Several biological pathways may explain this action, and some clinical data support these hypotheses.
An initial intriguing mechanism of L-carnitine involves its antioxidant activity. L-carnitine is capable of neutralizing reactive oxygen species generated particularly during UV exposure. These free radicals directly contribute to the breakdown of collagen and elastin, two proteins that ensure skin suppleness and elasticity. By limiting this oxidative stress, L-carnitine helps preserve the integrity of the extracellular matrix, thereby reducing skin sagging and loss of firmness.
Meanwhile, L-carnitine exerts an inhibitory effect on matrix metalloproteinases MMP-1 and MMP-2, demonstrated in studies in vitro. These enzymes, activated notably by UV radiation and oxidative stress, are responsible for the degradation of collagen and other constituents of the dermal matrix. Their inhibition slows connective tissue breakdown and helps maintain smoother, firmer skin. Thus, by both an antioxidant effect and a direct action on MMPs, L-carnitine appears to protect the skin’s structural integrity.
These hypotheses were tested clinically. A pilot study was conducted with 50 women divided into two groups: one received a cream containing 1% L-carnitine, while the other received a placebo. The volunteers applied the formulation twice daily to the entire face for 12 weeks. Efficacy was evaluated clinically by visiometry. The researchers found that L-carnitine produced a significant decrease in two skin roughness parameters (R2 and R3), reflecting a reduction in wrinkles compared to placebo. No adverse effects were reported, confirming the good tolerability of the active ingredient. These data therefore suggest a real benefit of L-carnitine in improving skin firmness and texture after three months of regular use.