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Tout savoir sur le bisabolol.

Everything you need to know about bisabolol.

Bisabolol is a subtle active ingredient in cosmetic care. Although it is not often highlighted, it nonetheless possesses several interesting properties for skin and hair care. Benefits, method of obtaining, potential side effects... Learn more about bisabolol.

An overview of bisabolol.

Bisabolol is a natural ingredient found in various plants, such as chamomile and candeia. It is often used in the cosmetic industry due to its multiple benefits for the skin and hair. It was from the essential oil of Chamomilla recutita, or wild chamomile, that bisabolol was first isolated in 1951.

When examining the chemistry of bisabolol, it is observed that two different forms exist, referred to as enantiomers : the (D)-alpha-bisabolol and the (L)-alpha-bisabolol. Only the natural and plant-based form, the L enantiomer, is active and possesses soothing, anti-irritant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties. It is this form that is used in cosmetic care.

What is the method of extracting bisabolol?

The bisabolol used in cosmetic care can be of plant or synthetic origin. In both cases, it retains all its properties. However, the chemical synthesis of bisabolol is less environmentally friendly due to the precursors used, which are derived from petrochemicals, and the additional purification steps this involves. This method involves a series of reactions, the main one being the Diels-Alder reaction, which corresponds to a cycloaddition between a compound with two double bonds (diene) and a molecule with a double bond (alkene).

When derived from plants, bisabolol is obtained from the crystallization of essential oil from either candéia or German chamomile. This method involves cooling the essential oil to recover bisabolol in the form of crystals. These crystals are then purified through filtration and successive washings before being dried.

Note : the bisabolol used in Typology skincare products is of plant origin.

What are the benefits of bisabolol?

An extremely gentle ingredient, bisabolol is a friend to sensitive, irritated, or dry skin. Its application brings numerous benefits to both the skin and hair.

  • Moisturizing : bisabolol acts as a humectant to retain water within the cells of the epidermis. It thus contributes to the maintenance of the skin barrier and to the prevention of dehydration fine lines.

  • Anti-inflammatory : bisabolol has the ability to inhibit the activity of COX-2, an inflammatory membrane protein that releases prostaglandins, as well as the action of certain pro-inflammatory cytokines. Therefore, bisabolol can be used to soothe skin or scalp itching or certain redness.

  • Antioxidant : Bisabolol protects the skin against free radicals, thereby assisting in slowing down skin aging. It also protects the hair from the appearance of split ends or breakage.

  • Healing : bisabolol promotes the activity of the fibroblast growth factor, the fibers responsible for the synthesis of collagen and elastin, which are essential for the formation of scar tissue. It also encourages the multiplication and migration of fibroblasts to the wound area.

  • Prevention of aging signs : bisabolol has the ability to inhibit collagenase, the enzyme responsible for breaking down the peptide bonds of collagen and its degradation. The action of bisabolol on collagenase helps to prevent this phenomenon and contributes to skin suppleness.

  • Antibacterial : Multiple sources have shown that bisabolol has an effect against certain resistant bacterial strains. This active ingredient can thus help regulate the bacterial populations living on our skin.

  • Bleaching : a study has highlighted the inhibitory effect of bisabolol on melanogenesis, making it an ally in the fight against pigmented spots.

Bisabolol: Are there dangers to be aware of?

To date, no side effects have been reported after using bisabolol for cosmetic purposes. This ingredient is considered safe and is not subject to a concentration limit by European cosmetic regulations, even though it is effective at a low dose (≈ 1%). After hypoallergenic HRIPT (Human Repeat Insult Patch Test) tests, it was established that bisabolol was neither irritating, harmful, nor allergenic. Moreover, tests on guinea pigs have shown that this active ingredient was not photo-allergenic or photo-toxic. Finally, bisabolol is not among the ingredients advised against for pregnant or breastfeeding women.

Discover our products containing bisabolol.

At Typology, we have chosen to incorporate bisabolol into many of our skincare products due to its soothing and restorative properties.

  • The CBD and squalane ointment mask : this mask, specifically designed for sensitive and weakened skin, helps to soothe feelings of discomfort, tightness, and redness. It is used once or twice a week for supple and soothed skin and has an oil-in-gel texture that transforms into milk upon contact with water for easy rinsing.

  • The peeling mask : composed of an exfoliating complex made up of four AHAs and one PHA, this concentrated gel mask eliminates dead cells to unclog pores and refine skin texture. After application, the complexion is even and the skin texture is smoothed. This mask also helps to reduce the presence of blackheads over time.

  • The glycolic acid exfoliating serum : rich in exfoliating and astringent active ingredients, our glycolic acid serum fights against blackheads and dilated pores, for a smooth and even complexion. The bisabolol present in this treatment helps to counterbalance the sometimes irritating effect of glycolic acid.

  • The Woman range : to address the various skin needs of women during the menstrual cycle, Typology has developed the Woman range, consisting of four serums corresponding to the four weeks of a cycle. The first contains bisabolol and aims to hydrate and soothe the skin.

  • The anti-blemish shower gel : concentrated with exfoliating and purifying active ingredients, our glycolic acid shower gel unclogs pores, reduces blemishes, and fights against the appearance of ingrown hairs. Similarly, in the exfoliating serum, bisabolol was chosen to counteract the irritating effect of glycolic acid.

Sources

  • PARK D. & al. Whitening effect of alpha-bisabolol in Asian women subjects. International journal of cosmetic science (2010).

  • LEE S.-G. & al. Fermentative production and direct extraction of (-)-α-bisabolol in metabolically engineered Escherichia coli. Microbial cell factories (2016).

  • OJHA S. & al. Health Benefits, Pharmacological Effects, Molecular Mechanisms, and Therapeutic Potential of α-Bisabolol. Nutrients (2022).

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