Exfoliation is an essential skincare ritual for rejuvenating the skin. It smooths, evens out, and brightens the complexion. However, to reap these benefits, certain rules must be followed during its application. Learn more in this article.
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Exfoliation: The Rules to Follow.
Summary
- Rule No. 1: Use the right care to exfoliate the skin
- Rule No. 2: Properly prepare your skin
- Rule No. 3: Perform the correct actions
- Rule No. 4: Hydrate the skin
- Rule No. 5: Maintain a good usage frequency
Published August 22, 2023,
updated on February 8, 2024,
by
Manon, Scientific Editor
—
4 min read
Rule No. 1: Use the right care to exfoliate the skin.
It is important to find theexfoliant that is suitable for your skin type in order to prevent the occurrence of potential discomforts, such as pimples, irritation, or redness.
The "mechanical" exfoliation or scrubbing.
This type of exfoliation requires a "mechanical" action based on rubbing or circular movements during the application of the scrub.It clears the pores of impurities and allows the skin to absorb the active ingredients contained in skincare products. However, mechanical exfoliation can be too abrasive and is therefore not recommended for dry, sensitive, or acne-prone skin.
The "chemical" exfoliation or peeling.
Gentler than mechanical scrubs, this type of exfoliation uses acids (glycolic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid, gluconolactone, etc.). They function like proteases, breaking the glycoprotein bonds that connect the dead cells of the stratum corneum to each other.
BHA, on the other hand, differ from AHA due to their keratolytic properties, which allow them to detach and remove dead cells on the surface of the epidermis. PHA have smaller molecular sizes and penetrate less into the epidermis.
AHAs are generally recommended for dry skin as they exfoliate the surface while keeping the epidermis hydrated. Certain BHAs, like salicylic acid, have sebum-regulating properties that are ideal for acne-prone skin. PHAs are more suitable for atopic skin and/or skin with cutaneous conditions due to their small sizes.
Rule No. 2: Properly prepare your skin.
Before starting your routine, it is crucial to prepare your skin. To do this, begin by removing surface impurities with a standard cleanser. Once your skin is clean, the exfoliant should be applied to either dry or damp skin, depending on the type of product used, and it may sometimes require a waiting period.
Rule No. 3: Perform the correct actions.
The steps vary depending on whether you are using a granular exfoliant or an enzymatic peel.
With a granular exfoliation.
Apply a dollop of the treatment to a clean, damp face;
Massage carefully in circular motions, moving from the inside out. Avoid the eye contour and perform gentle movements;
Finish by rinsing with warm water.
With an enzymatic peel.
Apply the skincare product correctly on dry skin;
Allow the product to sit for the time indicated on the packaging;
Remove the substance with cotton or rinse depending on the treatment.
Note: It is recommended to perform your exfoliation in the evening to activate cellular renewal at night.
Rule No. 4: Hydrate the skin.
After performing your exfoliation, it is recommended to apply a treatment to provide deep nourishment and hydration to the skin. This will also promote the repair and regeneration of cells, while helping the skin to restore its hydrolipidic film that may have been disrupted during the exfoliation.
Rule No. 5: Maintain a good usage frequency.
While exfoliation rejuvenates the skin's glow and it's pleasant to have clean, smooth skin, it's better not to do it too often. Indeed, excessive exfoliation can cause irritations, redness, and can be harsh on the skin, which may react by producing an excess of sebum in defense, leading to an outbreak of pimples. Additionally, the skin tends to become thinner, more fragile, and more sensitive.
For the face, a weekly exfoliating treatment is usually sufficient. Individuals with normal to combination skin can perform up to two scrubs per week. However, for those with sensitive or mature skin, it is advisable to limit exfoliation to once every two weeks due to skin sensitivity, in order to avoid irritation. Generally, the frequency of exfoliation depends on the individual's feeling and need but should not exceed twice a week.
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