What should you know about phytokeratin?

Keratin is a fibrous protein naturally present in the superficial layers of the skin, but mostly in skin appendages such as hair, body hair, and nails. Its structure, rich in sulfur-containing amino acids, notably cysteine, gives it a high resistance and an essential protective function. It acts like a framework that provides both strength and elasticity to tissues. In skin care formulas, keratin is of animal origin, extracted from wool, feathers, or hooves.

Phytokeratin emerged as a more ethical alternative. Unlike conventional keratin, this plant-based form is obtained from hydrolyzed proteins of wheat, corn, soybean, or sweet almond. On INCI lists, it may appear under the namesHydrolyzed Wheat Protein or Hydrolyzed Sweet Almond Protein. It does not contain keratin in the strict sense, but its amino acid profile closely resembles that of human keratin, allowing it to mimic its effects.

At Typology, in line with our Formulation Charter, we exclude all animal-derived ingredients and favor phytokeratin.

Phytokeratin is derived from plant proteins, such as those from wheat, corn, soy, or sweet almond. These raw materials are extracted by milling and filtration, then subjected to enzymatic hydrolysis. This process uses specific proteolytic enzymes, such as papain from papaya or bromelain from pineapple. These enzymes cleave peptide bonds in long protein chains, fragmenting the macromolecules into smaller peptides and amino acids.

The choice of enzymes and reaction conditions (temperature, pH, hydrolysis time) yields an amino acid spectrum with proportions similar to those found in human keratin.

Phytokeratin is a versatile active ingredient found in many skin, hair, and nail treatments. However, despite its growing use in cosmetic formulations, to date there is no independent clinical study that has evaluated its effects. Benefits attributed to it rely on analogies with animal-derived keratin, due to similarities in amino acid composition, or on data from internal studies conducted by suppliers. These results provide insights but have not been validated in an independent scientific context, which warrants caution in interpretation.

What are the benefits of phytokeratin for the skin?

Phytokeratin appears to have a high affinity for the stratum corneum, which is naturally rich in keratin. Recall that keratin is produced by keratinocytes, the skin’s main epidermal cells, and is one of the primary structural elements of the stratum corneum. Keratin forms a strong, resilient network that shields the skin from external stressors and dehydration. This water-insoluble protein also helps form a semi-permeable barrier with intercellular lipids in the stratum corneum. Phytokeratin, often regarded as a biomimetic active ingredient, may strengthen the skin’s barrier function by promoting corneocyte cohesion. Phytokeratin could form a film that helps retain moisture in the epidermis. It could reduce skin barrier permeability and help maintain skin flexibility and hydration.

Does using phytokeratin offer benefits for hair?

Keratin accounts for approximately 95% of hair structure. It is produced by keratinocytes in hair follicles and provides hair fibers with strength, elasticity, and resistance to external stressors. This protein is organized into compact helical structures reinforced by disulfide bonds formed between sulfur-containing amino acids such as cysteine. On the surface, the cuticle scales are rich in keratin, and their alignment is essential for hair shine and protection. Chemical, thermal, or mechanical damage can degrade keratin and weaken hair fibers by increasing the porosity and causing a loss of cohesion.

The phytokeratin may be a plant-based solution to strengthen, repair, and protect damaged hair. Thanks to its low molecular weight from hydrolysis, it may penetrate the cuticle to support its internal reconstruction. Phytokeratin may fill cuticle gaps, reduce porosity, and smooth the hair surface to improve shine and pliability. It may form a protective film that limits water loss and prevents hair fiber breakage.

Phytokeratin for nail care?

Nails consist mostly of keratin. Keratin, produced by keratinocytes in the nail matrix, is arranged in stacked layers linked by disulfide bridges. This structure provides mechanical strength and flexibility. When keratin is altered—by solvents or mechanical trauma—nails weaken: they can split, break, or develop ridges. Keratin plays an important role in nail health.

It is reasonable to think that phytokeratin, similar to keratin, could strengthen weakened nails. Its low molecular weight may allow it to penetrate the nail’s surface layers and restore protein cohesion. This strengthens the nail structure and improves resistance to breakage. Phytokeratin may also form a protective film that shields nails from external stressors.

The phytokeratin is a well-tolerated ingredient in skincare, due to its composition, similar to the keratin naturally found in hair, nails, and skin.

To date, no scientific study has shown that its use is associated with adverse effects. Phytokeratin is not irritating or sensitizing and can be used without risk by sensitive populations, such as pregnant people and children. It is used at concentrations between 0.5% and 5%, but no regulatory limit exists for its maximum concentration. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel, although it did not directly assess phytokeratin, confirmed the safety of amino acids from hydrolyzed keratin that are structurally similar to those obtained by plant hydrolysis. In skin and eye irritation tests on these compounds, no side effects were reported.

At Typology, you’ll find phytokeratin in some of our formulations for nails, eyelashes, eyebrows, and hair.

• Hand & Nail Serum : With 1% phytokeratin and 2% of hyaluronic acid, this serum repairs and strengthens brittle, damaged nails while hydrating hand skin. It contains biotin to reinforce nails and cuticles and prevent breakage.

• Anti-Dandruff Shampoo : In addition to phytokeratin, this shampoo contains piroctone olamine, an active ingredient that fights dandruff through antifungal and sebum-regulating actions. It acts in synergy with jujube extract, which normalizes scalp desquamation and reduces irritation and itching, and the essential oils of atlas cedar and clary sage.

• Densifying Shampoo : Enriched with caffeine and acetyl tetrapeptide-3, this 95% natural-origin formula stimulates scalp microcirculation to promote hair growth. It maximizes anchoring of hair fibers to reduce shedding.

• Repairing Hair Mask : Enriched with ceramides biomimetic, mango butter and avocado oil, this rich formula restores cuticle cohesion and nourishes the hair fiber. Apply one to two times per week to soften hair and help prevent split ends.

• Restorative Hair Serum : Composed of 99% natural ingredients, this hair serum contains hyaluronic acid and vegetable keratin. Its light texture allows it to hydrate and strengthen the hair fibers to limit breakage and provide them with shine and softness, without weighing them down. Suitable for all hair types, it is used on both dry and wet hair.

• Fortifying Brow Gel : Available in three shades, this hybrid treatment is concentrated with pea peptides that densify and strengthen brows. It provides definition and volume for a natural, customizable finish.

• Serum Mascara : By enhancing lash definition, this formula strengthens lashes and shields them from oxidative stress and environmental aggressors thanks to its castor oil. It also contains pea peptides to densify lashes.

• ANDERSEN F. A. & al. Safety assessment of animal- and plant-derived amino acids as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology (2014).

• KWON I. K. & al. Human hair keratin and its-based biomaterials for biomedical applications. Tissue Engineering and Regenerative Medicine (2014).

• MEYER A. S. & al. Microbial enzymes catalyzing keratin degradation: Classification, structure, function. Biotechnology Advances (2020).

• NARASAIAH B. & al. Extraction and application of keratin from natural resources: A review. 3 Biotech (2021).

• GARG R & al. Contribution of environmental constituents in the genomic disruption of cytokeratins. Cytogenetics - Classical and Molecular Strategies for Analysing Heredity Material (2021).