Bienfaits acide hyaluronique cheveux.

What are the benefits of hyaluronic acid for the scalp and hair?

Hyaluronic acid is one of the most popular active ingredients in cosmetic formulations. It is found in numerous skincare products, particularly for its outstanding hydrating properties. However, hyaluronic acid also offers several benefits for hair and scalp care. In this article, discover all the haircare advantages of hyaluronic acid.

What benefits does hyaluronic acid provide for hair?

The hyaluronic acid is a molecule naturally present in the body, known for its remarkable ability to attract and retain water. Depending on its molecular weight, it can even bind up to 1,000 times its weight in water. However, while this property is beneficial for skin, it is less relevant for hair. Indeed, each hair fiber consists of three overlapping layers: the medulla, the innermost layer; the cortex, which accounts for nearly 80% of the hair; and the cuticle, the outer protective layer. The latter is formed by flat cells that overlap like shingles, and their cohesion is essential not only to limit water loss but also to prevent water from penetrating the hair.

Indeed, water is not truly beneficial for hair. When it penetrates a porous hair fiber, whose cuticle layers are misaligned, it causes a cuticle swelling and increases its disorganization, thereby promoting the development of split ends. That is why it is not recommended to let hair air-dry, since moisture remains there longer. Moreover, despite what is sometimes claimed, hyaluronic acid does not form a protective film on the hair's surface: being hydrophilic, it cannot adhere to a lipid-rich surface such as that of the hair fiber.

Thus, the use of hyaluronic acid to "hydrate" the hair that is dry—whether straight, curly, or coily—is not as relevant as one might think.

To date, few studies have investigated the hair-related properties of hyaluronic acid. One study evaluated the effects of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights on the mechanical properties of hair fibers. Hair swatches were treated with a spray containing 0.25% hyaluronic acid and then subjected to tensile testing to measure their strength. The results showed that only low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid significantly increased hair fiber strength (+16%), without altering their elongation at break.

Effets de l'acide hyaluronique sur la résistance à la traction de fibres capillaires.
Effects of hyaluronic acid on the tensile strength of hair fibers.
Source: Wang J. et al. Improving the mechanical properties of damaged hair using low-molecular-weight hyaluronate. Molecules (2022).
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Another study arrived at the same conclusions. Researchers evaluated the effect of four different biopolymer-enriched conditioners (collagen; hyaluronic acid; a 50/50 collagen–hyaluronic acid blend; and a 50/50 collagen–hyaluronic acid blend containing 30% chitosan) versus a biopolymer-free conditioner on the mechanical properties of human hair. Brown hair strands collected from a 20-year-old woman were washed, dried, treated with one of the conditioners for 30 minutes, then rinsed and air-dried. The hair was subsequently subjected to mechanical tests (Young’s modulus and elongation at break) using a tensile testing machine. The results, shown in the graph below, indicate that the inclusion of hyaluronic acid in the conditioners significantly increases Young’s modulus, reflecting an improvement in the strength of the hair fibers.

Effets de l'acide hyaluronique sur la résistance à la traction de fibres capillaires.
Effects of hyaluronic acid on the tensile strength of hair fibers.
Source: Sionkowska A. et al. The properties of hair treated with conditioners containing collagen, chitosan, and hyaluronic acid. European Journal of Medical Technologies (2019).

Although further studies are necessary, hyaluronic acid may strengthen hair resilience.

Note : It is sometimes claimed that hyaluronic acid has the ability to stimulate hair growth or slow hair loss. However, while hyaluronic acid injections can indeed have this effect, no study suggests that topically applied hyaluronic acid can do the same.

Scalp: how does it benefit from hyaluronic acid?

Hyaluronic acid is particularly beneficial for the scalp, a frequently overlooked area.

Just like facial skin, the scalp can be prone to dehydration, for example after frequent washes with harsh shampoos. Thanks to its hygroscopic properties, hyaluronic acid acts like a sponge to retain water in the tissues and restore the scalp’s water balance. Moreover, when it is of high molecular weight, hyaluronic acid can form a film on the surface of the scalp, protecting it from external aggressions and offsetting the drying effect of certain surfactants in shampoos.

Beyond its hydrating properties, hyaluronic acid also displays noteworthy anti-inflammatory effects for scalps prone to irritation, redness, or itching. Studies in vitro have shown that this molecule can modulate the immune response by acting on certain inflammatory mediators, such as interleukin-8, produced by skin cells under stress. By reducing the release of these cytokines, hyaluronic acid limits local inflammation and soothes discomfort. Furthermore, its high affinity for the CD44 receptor enables it to inhibit the production of prostaglandin E2 (PGE2) and matrix metalloproteinases, which are also involved in itching and irritation.

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