What Is Bakuchiol?

Touted as the green and safe version of retinol, bakuchiol is an ingredient derived from the seeds of the Babchi tree. Also known as "Bakuchi", this plant endemic to the Himalayan region has long been part of the Ayurvedic pharmacopoeia; it was traditionally used by Indian and Chinese populations to treat skin problems.

Present for only about fifteen years on the cosmetic market, bakuchiol is recognized as the gentle alternative to retinoids. Non-irritating, photostable and with no known side effects, it acts on the same biological mechanisms as the latter. Thus, bakuchiol also contributes to maintaining the quantity and quality of components that ensure the firmness and structure of the skin, such as elastin or collagen.

In addition, this ingredient is prized for its action against oxidation. As such, its protection against oxidative stress related to pollution, sun exposure or poor nutrition at the epidermis level is long-lasting. Finally, this ingredient also calms acne-related inflammation and regulates the overproduction of sebum.

The Various Treatments with Bakuchiol.

In order to reduce imperfections and thus prevent the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, various galenic formulas contain bakuchiol and are now distributed on the cosmetic market. This active ingredient can be present in creams, lotions, and oil-based serums.

To observe an efficiency on the skin, bakuchiol must be at least concentrated at 0.5% in a cosmetic formula. In general, serums are the galenic formulas that have a higher concentration of active ingredients and therefore of bakuchiol. However, it is advisable not to exceed 1% of bakuchiol in a skin product.

Unlike retinoid-based cosmetics, those containing bakuchiol are usually not restricted for pregnant and/or breastfeeding women. Be sure to consult each product for more information.

How To Include Bakuchiol in a Daily Routine?

  • Areas of application:

A treatment with bakuchiol can be applied to the entire face. It is particularly relevant to apply it around the eyes, an area where the skin is thin and tends to be more marked. It can also be used locally, only on areas affected by imperfections as a spot treatment.

  • Frequency of application:

Bakuchiol is not a photo-sensitizing compound: it does not increase skin sensitivity with the sun's UV rays. Thus, you can apply a care containing this active ingredient morning and evening. However, make sure you protect your skin every morning with a broad spectrum sun protection.

  • The modes of application according to the galenics used:

Generally, serums are more concentrated in active ingredients than creams. To apply a serum, pour 3 to 7 drops into the palm of your hands. Using your fingertips, apply the treatment, spreading it evenly over your face and neck. Massage gently.

To apply a bakuchiol cream, take a small amount of the product and spread it over the entire face. Gently massage it in.

The eye contour is a fragile area of the face and also the one where crow's feet and dark circles appear. Using the tip of your ring finger, pat a small amount of the product along the orbital bone in a half-moon motion at the outer corner of the eyes. Gently massage in. For visible results, apply bakuchiol in the morning before your sunscreen and in the evening before your night cream.

How To Use Our Bakuchiol Blemish Serum?

The Blemish Serum is a minimalist, fragrance-free skin care product that contains only three ingredients: 1% Bakuchiol (the optimal concentration at which its effectiveness has been proven), Hazelnut Oil (I.N.C.: Corylus Avellana (Hazelnut) Seed Oil) and Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride. Its function is to fight against the excess of sebum and to attenuate the imperfections and the dark spots.

How to apply it? Take 3 to 4 drops with the dropper and spread the product on your clean, dry face in the evening so that this serum with bakuchiol penetrates during the night. Gently massage the face and neck with circular motions. You can then apply your usual moisturizer.

Note: Even if the bakuchiol is not photosensitizing, we recommend its use in the evening because of the oily nature of this serum.

How To Use Our Serum For Wrinkles and Imperfections With Bakuchiol and Retinol?

The combination of bakuchiol and retinol is relevant because it enables the cumulation of advantages from both compounds. Moreover, a study showed that when bakuchiol and retinol were combined, bakuchiol stabilized retinol, thus prolonging its effectiveness. The anti-inflammatory effects of bakuchiol would also allow the skin to better tolerate retinol.

These two active ingredients are combined in our wrinkle and blemish serum. This serum also contains plant polypeptides capable of acting in synergy with retinol to promote the synthesis of type I collagen.

How to use it? Apply 3 to 4 drops of the retinol and bakuchiol serum on a clean and dry face in the evening only, avoiding the eye area. Gently massage the face and neck with circular motions.

If the first uses of the wrinkles and imperfections serum irritate or sensitize your skin, space out the applications a few days in order to get your skin used to retinol: every third day, then every other day, then every day.

Be careful, retinol can make your skin sensitive to the sun, so use this serum in the evening and apply a suitable sun cream in the days following application. Furthermore, as a precaution, we advise against using retinoids during pregnancy and breastfeeding.

Sources :

  • BOJANOWSKI K. & al. Bakuchiol: a retinol-like functional compound revealed by gene expression profiling and clinically proven to have anti-aging effects. International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2014).  

  • REITER P. & al. Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing Clinical Trial. British Journal of Dermatology (2019).

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