How to maintain healthy hair during the fall?

The sun, sea salt and chlorine from swimming pools have put hair through a real test over the summer, weakening its structure. To better understand, it’s important to recall that each hair strand is composed of a central core, the cortex, which concentrates the keratin proteins responsible for the fiber’s strength and elasticity. This cortex is surrounded by the cuticle, an outer layer made of flat, overlapping cells, similar to protective scales. However, summer stressors lift and damage these scales, leaving the cortex more exposed and making hair more vulnerable to breakage and split ends. The hair fibers also lose their shine, retain moisture less effectively, and display a rougher and porous. This cuticle degradation also makes the hair more prone to frizz and tangles, amplifying the appearance of tired-looking hair when fall arrives.

A recent study examined the impact of sunlight on the lipid composition of the hair cuticle to better understand why hair appears drier and duller after summer. The researchers analyzed ten blond hair strands, split into two groups: one exposed to visible light and UV rays (340 and 420 nm) and the other unexposed. Lipidomic analysis by LC–MS identified 791 distinct lipids out of 3,521 detected signals. The results showed that more than half of the lipid classes were altered by UV exposure, some decreasing sharply while others increased, indicating an impairment of the hair’s lipid barrier during summer.

Thus, to care for your hair in autumn, one must begin by repairing it following the summer season.

• Do not omit conditioner from your hair care regimen.

  To restore vitality to hair damaged by summer, one must begin by not neglecting the conditioner. Unlike shampoo, which is intended to cleanse the scalp and remove impurities, conditioner acts directly on the hair shaft. Rich in cationic agents and emollients, this product smooths cuticles lifted by sun exposure, salt, or chlorine, and reduces the electrostatic charge responsible for frizz and tangles. By forming a thin protective film around the hair strand, it limits water loss and partially restores hair flexibility and shine. In autumn, as in any season, systematic use of a conditioner—applied to the lengths and ends—is therefore essential.

• Utilize hair masks.

  Hair masks are far from useless and help repair hair damaged by summer. Richer than standard conditioners, masks generally contain nourishing agents such as ceramides or plant oils. These compounds reinforce the intercellular cement of the hair fibers, aiding in the restoration of cuticle cohesion and limiting the increased porosity often seen after sun exposure. Regular application once or twice weekly replenishes the hair’s lipid and protein reserves while providing protection against mechanical stress from brushing.

• Opt for restorative hair serums.

  Repairing hair serums are an effective solution for caring for the ends—the first to suffer from summer’s environmental stresses. Unlike masks, these lightweight treatments typically do not require rinsing but instead form a protective film around the hair fiber. Hair serums temporarily fill in cuticle micro-gaps, thereby reducing breakage and split ends. Moreover, their smoothing action enhances light reflection, instantly restoring shine to dull hair. Used daily or a few times per week, depending on hair condition, hair serums can be particularly beneficial in autumn.

• Do not hesitate to cut your forks.

  Unfortunately, once split ends develop, the only remedy is to cut them off. Furthermore, when the cuticle is compromised, the crack propagates into the cortex, weakening the entire hair shaft and resulting in more extensive breakage over time. A visit to the hair stylist at the start of the new season—even if it’s only to remove a few centimeters—allows you to begin with a healthy foundation and preserve your hair’s vitality.

The hair shedding is a natural phenomenon accompanying the hair follicle life cycle, but it intensifies particularly in autumn. This seasonal increase in hair loss is partly explained by the action of melatonin, a hormone secreted by the pineal gland and suppressed in the presence of light. Melatonin plays a key role in the hair cycle by extending the anagen phase, which is the growth phase of the hair. During summer, when sunlight exposure is greater, melatonin production decreases, which accelerates the transition of follicles to the catagen and telogen phases (rest and shedding). This shift explains why hair falls out more abundantly in early autumn, a few months after peak sun exposure. A clinical study confirmed this role by showing that a topical application of melatonin on the scalp of women with androgenetic alopecia significantly increased the proportion of hairs in the anagen phase compared to the control group.

• Adopt a balanced, nutrient-rich diet.

  Hair health depends in part on what we put on our plate. Hair, composed mainly of keratin, requires sulfur-containing amino acids for strength, which are found in eggs, legumes, and fish. Minerals like iron, zinc, and silicon also support the growth and vitality of hair fibers, while B vitamins promote cellular renewal. In the fall, it is therefore recommended to prioritize a varied diet that includes proteins, whole grains, dried fruits, antioxidant-rich vegetables, and sources of omega-3s, such as fatty fish or flax seeds.

  Note : In the fall, dietary supplements marketed to promote hair growth become increasingly plentiful. While they may seem appealing, we recommend consulting a healthcare professional before beginning any regimen. In the absence of deficiencies, supplementation does not necessarily confer benefits.

• Use fortifying treatments.

  Beyond diet and lifestyle habits, it can be useful to apply fortifying treatments to the scalp. Some ingredients, such as caffeine, the rosemary essential oil or even the acetyl tetrapeptide-3, are often incorporated into hair serums or shampoos to prevent hair loss. Caffeine works by stimulating microcirculation and enhancing nutrient delivery to the hair follicles, which contributes to supporting the growth phase. Rosemary essential oil, for its part, is thought to inhibit 5α-reductase, the enzyme responsible for converting testosterone into dihydrotestosterone (DHT). By doing so, it prevents DHT from binding to follicles and disrupting their growth cycle. Finally, acetyl tetrapeptide-3 is a biomimetic peptide that acts on the follicular environment by supporting the extracellular matrix, thereby promoting better anchoring of the fiber within its bulb

Most hair care routines focus on the lengths and tend to leave the scalp in the background. Yet it serves as the foundation of the hair : this is where hair follicles originate, and their activity directly determines hair quality, density, and vitality. An imbalanced scalp—whether too dry, irritated, or, conversely, too oily—can weaken the fiber from its very formation. In autumn, when hair undergoes more pronounced seasonal shedding, caring for this area is essential to foster an environment conducive to healthy regrowth.

• Use an appropriate shampoo.

  Shampoo selection is often driven by the condition of the hair lengths, whereas it should primarily address the needs of the scalp. A oily scalp, for instance, requires rebalancing formulations that curb excessive sebum production without irritating the skin. Conversely, a dry or irritation-prone scalp benefits more from gentle, moisturizing treatments enriched with soothing agents such as aloe vera or glycerin.

  The dandruff is another common issue that deserves special attention. It typically appears due to an overgrowth of Malassezia, a yeast naturally present on the scalp that causes accelerated desquamation. In this case, an anti-dandruff shampoo formulated with antifungal active ingredients, such as zinc pyrithione or piroctone olamine, can help to restore the balance of the skin’s microbiome and soothe itching. For dry dandruff, which manifests as small white particles and associated dryness, it is best to choose moisturizing and nourishing formulas. Conversely, greasy dandruff, which is thicker and yellowish, often involves excess sebum and requires suitable purifying shampoos.

• Exfoliate your scalp regularly.

  In the fall, to rejuvenate after the summer, it is beneficial to begin using a scalp scrub. Like facial or body scrubs, the purpose of this treatment is to remove accumulated impurities and help unclog hair follicles. This exfoliation also stimulates microcirculation, thereby promoting better oxygenation of the roots and improved hair growth. When performed once or twice a week, especially during the fall transition when hair shedding increases, it contributes to maintaining a healthy scalp that is more receptive to subsequent treatments.