How to Understand a Serum Texture.

Unlike face creams, serums are intensive treatments that contain a rather high percentage of active molecules. They allow targeted effects on specific skin concerns. Indeed, a serum does not treat a type of skin, but the specific needs of the epidermis such as dehydration, lack of radiance, the accentuation of wrinkles, the appearance of imperfections, hyperpigmentation, redness, or skin aging.

The serum is a care that acts in depth despite its application on the surface. In addition to being highly concentrated, a face serum texture is generally more melting, fine, fluid, and light than a cream. This characteristic was thought to potentiate the penetration of the active ingredients in the various layers of the skin. Thus, the serum will be able to infiltrate more deeply through the skin cells and alleviate certain skin discomforts.

Moreover, the application of a serum allows reinforcing the action of the care products used afterwards. The serum is rarely used alone. It cannot replace facial care because, with its fluid texture, it does not have a barrier function that protects against external aggressions and prevents the skin from losing its hydration like a face cream. It must thus be coupled with your usual cream.

As its name indicates, a serum texture denominated “aqueous” is essentially made up of water and hydrophilic derivatives such as floral waters, aqueous plant extracts and mineral waters. Because of its composition, an aqueous serum is by definition moisturizing, but not in the same way as a face cream. Indeed, the purpose of aqueous serum consists in supplying the skin with as much water as possible, without retaining it. It can also have additional benefits such as soothing and rebalancing the skin's pH after cleansing or preparing the skin to receive other treatments.

Aqueous serums are most often gelled, which means they contain thickening agents such as xanthan gum, carrageenan (red algae extract) or agar-agar. Depending on the rate of incorporation of these gelling agents in the formulas, the serums are more or less thick. Moreover, the texture of serums also varies according to the active ingredients present, some compounds being more consistent than others.

We have developed several aqueous texture serums, such as the anti-marks serum, which targets the marks left by acne; the radiance face serum, highly concentrated in vitamin C (11%); the hyperpigmentation serum, rich in lightening active ingredients (alpha-arbutin at 2% and lemon extract); the exfoliating serum with glycolic acid; the plumping serum with polyglutamic acid and red algae extract; the moisturizing serum with 3% hyaluronic acid and 2% provitamin B5; the imperfections serum with salicylic acid and zinc; the matifying serum with azelaic acid or the gentle peeling serum with 10% lactic acid and acerola extract.

Oily texture serums are composed of lipophilic active molecules and vegetable and/or synthetic oils. They have the purpose to act on targeted skin concerns such as dehydration, loss of radiance or signs of aging. This type of serum is not limited to a surface effect. The active ingredients they contain penetrate deeply to reinforce the barrier function formed by the different layers of the skin in order to retain more water. Indeed, these oily serums have a strong affinity with the lipidic components of the epidermis. Their action affects both the hydrolipidic film and the intercellular cement. Unlike their aqueous counterparts, oily night serums such as botanical blends can be applied alone after cleansing the skin. The oily serum texture is perfect for use in the evening.

Among our face serums, the wrinkles, and fine lines serum with retinol, the nourishing serum with squalane or the dryness and imperfections serum which contains squalane associated with ceramides are oily serums. All our night serums also have this oily texture.

To ensure good penetration of the active ingredients, it is generally necessary to apply the most fluid care product to the thickest. Aqueous serums are usually thinner than oily serums, so they should be applied first to clean, dry skin. Below is a summary table of our serums and their texture.