Matifying Powders: How Do They Work?

Matifying powders contain one or more types of the following ingredients, which can be more or less harmful to health or the environment.

• Mineral powders

  Matifying powders contain absorbent agents capable of absorbing impurities and oils. These include mineral powders such as thegreen clay(I.N.C.I.: Montmorillonite) or white clay (I.N.C.I.: Kaolin / Montmorillonite) whose lamellar, or layered, structures allow for the absorption of lipids.However, caution should be exercised with certain mineral powders, such as talc. Indeed, in 2012, ANSES concluded that it was not possible to rule out the presence of asbestos fibers in some talc deposits. Moreover, studies have shown harmful effects on the respiratory system following the inhalation of talc.

• Silicon-based derivatives

  Silicones are sometimes present in compact mattifying powders to make the application smoother and the touch softer. Even though not all silicones have harmful effects on health and some are completely safe to use, the cyclotetrasiloxane (D4) and the cyclopentasiloxane (D5) are both suspected to be endocrine disruptors . The same goes for cyclomethicone, often found in mattifying powders, which is a mix of silicones D4, D5, and D6. As a reminder, at Typology, we exclude silicones from all our formulas as a precautionary principle.

• Preservatives

  To prevent the growth and colonization of bacteria, antimicrobial agents are often added to the formulas of mattifying powders.For instance, one might find phenoxyethanol. This compound can cause skin allergies, neurological disorders, as well as effects on reproduction. Moreover, the National Agency for the Safety of Medicines and Health Products attributes side effects such as moderate to severe eye irritation to this preservative. Given these factors, it is preferable not to opt for a powder that contains phenoxyethanol. Additionally, some powders contain parabens, which are recognized as endocrine disruptors (= substances that disturb hormonal balance). Therefore, avoid choosing a mattifying powder that lists, for example, Butylparaben or Propylparaben in its INCI list.

• UV Filters

  Some mattifying powders contain these types of compounds and thus indicate an SPF on their packaging. However, be aware, certain UV filters found in powders on the market are suspected endocrine disruptors, such as ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate.

• Active ingredients

  Skincare makeup has become indispensable in recent years. As such, many formulators are adding active molecules to makeup products. In mattifying powders, we sometimes find sebum-regulating actives such as the zinc , or even hydrating molecules like hyaluronic acid.