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Profile: Azelaic Acid

Commonly known as: Azelaic acid, 1,7-heptanedicarboxylic acid.
I.N.C.I. list name: Azelaic Acid.
Extraction process: Oxidation synthesis of oleic acid present in date palm vegetable oil, followed by a purification stage.
Source: Plant-based.
Botanical name: Phoenix dactylifera L. (Date Palm).
Family: Arecaceae.
Part of the plant extracted: Seeds.
Provenance, origin: Taiwan.
Chemical characteristics: A saturated dicarboxylic acid with 9 carbon atoms; Soluble in alcohol; Very slightly soluble in water; Molecular weight: 188.22 g/mol; Density: 1.03 g/cm3.
Characteristics: Emulsion, colloidal solution.
Dosage required in cosmetic products: Ranges between 3 and 20%.
Function: pH regulator, masking agent.
Properties: Antibacterial, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, soothing, depigmenting, keratolytic, sebum-regulating.
Benefits: All skin types, especially those prone to acne, those with pigmentation spots, oily skins, and skins prone to redness.



  • Antibacterial: Fighting against a variety of microorganisms, such as the bacteria Propionibacterium acnes which leads to acne;

  • Anti-inflammatory: Alleviate inflammatory reactions and reduce redness by inhibiting the expression of pro-inflammatory molecules (TNF-α, IL-1β, IL-6);

  • Depigmenting: Evening out the complexion by inhibiting tyrosinase, an enzyme involved in the process of melanogenesis;

  • Keratolytic: Decrease the thickness of the outer layers of dead cells by modulating the differentiation of keratinocytes;

  • Sebum Regulator: Decrease skin shine by normalizing the functional activity of the sebaceous glands through the inhibition of 5 α-reductase activity, an enzyme responsible for the conversion of testosterone into dihydrotestosterone, which can regulate sebum synthesis.


  • Facial Care (purifying cleansing gels, serums, moisturizing creams/gels/foams).

Preservation Method

Store in a dry place at room temperature, away from direct contact with light, heat, and humidity

Contraindications, Usage Precautions

Azelaic acid is compatible and well-tolerated by all skin types, posing no dangers to human health. However, it is still possible to experience some side effects (warmth, itching, redness, skin dryness, etc.) during the first use, which remain mild and infrequent.

Therefore, as a precautionary measure, it is recommended toperform a skin test before using any azelaic acid skincare product to observe potential adverse effects.

Due to its gentle nature, azelaic acid can be used safely in pregnant or breastfeeding women. However, we still advise discussing it with your doctor. On the other hand, its use is to be avoided in children due to the lack of concrete studies on these subjects.

Contrary to what its name might suggest, azelaic acid is not a photosensitizing agent. Therefore, it can be applied in the morning and/or evening.

Find out more

The name originates from the fact that it was initially produced by the oxidation of oleic acid by nitric acid, a nitrogen compound. It was in 1978 that NAZZARO-PORRO first determined the depigmenting potential of azelaic acid by studying cultures of Pityrosporum, a type of fungus found in the skin flora. Derived from plants, azelaic acid is also known for its sebum-regulating, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and antibacterial effects.