What are the characteristics of DE(+) skin?

Cutaneous aging: BEGINNER ("Débutant" in French)

Oxidation factors: EXPOSED

Sebum production: ELEVATED (+)

When skin is classified as "D", it indicates that the initial mechanisms linked to skin aging are beginning to take hold, even though the visible signs remain subtle. At this stage, it is not advanced aging per se but rather a gradual slowdown of the skin’s biological functions, subtly altering its behavior and its ability to maintain homeostasis. In this early phase, several phenomena develop simultaneously:

• A progressive decline in fibroblast activity, which reduces the production of collagen and of elastin.

• A decrease in the ability of keratinocytes, the skin’s primary cells, to regenerate, leading to a less smooth epidermis and less homogeneous.

• A less efficient cellular repair capacity, particularly at night, meaning that daytime assaults (UV, pollution, friction) more readily leave a biological footprint.

These internal changes do not always lead to wrinkles visible, but they often present as uneven radiance, increased skin reactivity to environmental stress, and a slight loss of comfort, especially in DE(+) individuals exposed to numerous oxidative factors.

Classification “D” thus represents the moment when the skin begins to show that its defense and regeneration mechanisms are no longer functioning at full capacity, yet are not profoundly compromised.

When skin is classified as “E,” it indicates that it exists in an environment where the oxidative stress is extremely prominent and intense enough to disrupt its biological balance on a daily basis. These factors generate reactive oxygen species within the skin, which can attack lipids, proteins, and cellular DNA. It should be noted that oxidative stress occurs when exposure to oxidizing agents exceeds the skin’s capacity to neutralize free radicals of the skin.

The main sources of oxidative stress are well known: UV radiation, air pollution, tobacco, alcohol, fatigue... Exposed skin does not always react with a redness or an immediate sensation of discomfort: more often than not, the impact is invisible at first, but gradually manifests as a dulling of radiance and the progressive emergence of aging signs.

The “E” classification thus highlights skin that has been subjected to oxidation.

AE(+) skin is characterized by a production of sebum elevated. This excessive secretion by the sebaceous glands is primarily physiological in nature, determined by hormonal activity, although it is also influenced by environmental factors (body temperature, circadian rhythm, certain medications, a diet high in fat and sugar, stress...). Even though this skin type is well protected by a hydrolipidic film rich in lipids that covers the entire skin surface, this dysregulation in sebum production can nonetheless be problematic.

Indeed, AE(+) skin often appears shiny throughout the day and carries an increased risk of developing imperfections. As a reminder, these form when skin pores become clogged, often due to excess sebum. Furthermore, sebum overproduction can increase the size of the pores, which can also lead to feelings of insecurity.

However, “+” skin types have an advantage: very well protected by their hydrolipidic film, they are often less prone to premature aging.

A DE(+) skin exhibits sensitivity to oxidative stress, early visible signs of aging, and elevated sebum production. The aim of the routine is to provide antioxidant protection, manage skin shine, and support its regenerative mechanisms.

In the morning, the priority is to stabilize sebum production while providing robust protection against oxidative factors. A gentle, non-stripping cleanser removes excess sebum produced overnight without disrupting the skin barrier. Next comes an antioxidant, such as vitamin C or resveratrol, which limits the impact of free radicals and helps preserve skin radiance. A mattifying treatment based on niacinamide or zinc, then contributes to evening out the skin and reducing shine without drying it out. The skincare routine is then completed with a moisturizing cream, to seal in hydration and prevent any reactive sebum overproduction, and with a sunscreen, essential for limiting oxidative processes.

In the evening, the goal is to gently unclog the skin, then support its repair processes that activate during the night. The double cleansing is ideal for DE(+) skin, as it provides complete removal of accumulated sebum, pollutant particles, and sunscreen filters without irritating the skin. Once the skin is completely clean, a tightening active ingredient, such as the retinol or the peptides, can be used to improve skin texture and combat the first signs of aging. Finally, a lightweight yet restorative cream helps restore the skin barrier without weighing the skin down.