What are the dangers of Italian Helichrysum essential oil?

The essential oil of Italian helichrysum is obtained after steam distillation of the flowering tops of the Helichrysum italicum, a plant that blooms in Corsica and Italy. In addition to its benefits on bruises, its venotonic effects make it an ally for heavy legs and varicose veins. Moreover, its proven properties against inflammation allow it to intervene to soothe the skin and reduce redness. It's also worth noting that the essential oil of immortelle has an interesting action on acne. Finally, it has tightening effects and is frequently used to combat the signs of aging.

Indispensable in aromatherapy, the essential oil of Italian helichrysum has the advantage of being very gentle and suitable for almost all skin types. Several studies have highlighted its safety and demonstrated that it is very well tolerated, even after prolonged use. Moreover, unlike some essential oils, the essential oil of immortelle is not photosensitive and can be used both in the morning and in the evening.

However, a recent case of contact dermatitis was reported in a 69-year-old woman, caused by the hydrophilic and lipophilic fractions of Italian helichrysum contained in an emollient cream. Her reaction was verified by a patch test and confirmed by isolating the botanical extract. Nevertheless, additional tests conducted on 10 volunteers yielded negative results. It is therefore possible that the case of contact dermatitis observed corresponds to an isolated hypersensitivity reaction.

Like most essential oils, the Italian helichrysum essential oil is not recommended for pregnant women. Indeed, essential oils are often composed of ketone functions that present a neurotoxic and abortive risk. They have the ability to cross the blood-brain barrier and reach the brain where they can degrade the myelin sheath that protects neurons. The ketones found in the immortelle essential oil are bifunctional ketones. Due to their larger molecular weight, their passage into the brain is highly unlikely. Nevertheless, the use of immortelle essential oil remains, as a precautionary principle, not recommended during pregnancy. The same applies to children under three years of age, due to the sensitivity of their skin.

Furthermore, it is not recommended for individuals undergoing anticoagulant treatment or suffering from hemophilia to apply Italian helichrysum essential oil due to its veinotonic properties. Indeed, studies have shown that the neryl acetate and italidiones it contains can inhibit the formation of blood clots. This can potentiate the effect of anticoagulant medications, thereby increasing the risk of excessive bleeding or hemorrhages.

Even though Italian Helichrysum essential oil is generally well tolerated, it is recommended to perform a tolerance test when using it for the first time. Indeed, each individual may react differently to a cosmetic product. To prevent any risks, apply two drops in the crook of your elbow and wait 48 hours. If no adverse reaction is observed, you can use the Immortelle essential oil on your skin or scalp.

Furthermore, the use of an excessive amount of Italian Helichrysum essential oil can be harmful to the skin. It is therefore preferable to apply it in small amounts to avoid any risk of overdose. It is also recommended for sensitive skin to dilute it in a carrier oil, such as coconut oil. A 50% dilution is generally advised. In addition, it is important not to apply Helichrysum essential oil on the mucous membranes or around the eye contour as this could severely irritate these delicate areas.

Lastly, ensure to store your bottle of Italian helichrysum essential oil at room temperature, as high heat can cause some of the oil's components to evaporate, reducing its quality and safety for use. We also recommend keeping it away from light, which can potentially damage it. Furthermore, it is necessary to store the immortelle essential oil in a tightly sealed bottle to prevent it from oxidizing when exposed to air and to adhere to the expiration date indicated on the bottle. Indeed, its oxidation can lead to a deterioration of the active ingredients it contains and a loss of their effectiveness.

• PALMEIRA DE OLIVEIRA R. & others. Helichrysum italicum: From traditional use to scientific data. Journal of Ethnopharmacology (2013).

• APPENDINO G. & al. Helichrysum italicum: The dormant titan of Mediterranean herbal medicine. Herbalgram (2015).

• MANDIC B. & al. Composition, Antioxidant Potential, and Antimicrobial Activity of Helichrysum plicatum DC. Various Extracts. Plants (2020).

• SETZER W. N. & others. Maternal reproductive toxicity of certain essential oils and their components. International Journal of Molecular Sciences (2021).