Italian Helichrysum oil: risks to be aware of?

Key points to remember.

Well tolerated by the majority of skin types, immortelle essential oil is not photosensitizing and can be used at any time of day, provided it is diluted in a vegetable oil.
Italian helichrysum essential oil is not recommended during pregnancy, in young children and in individuals receiving anticoagulant therapy.
Perform a tolerance test before first use to prevent a widespread reaction.
To preserve its richness in active compounds, make sure to store the essential oil away from heat, light, and air.

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Does Italian helichrysum essential oil cause any side effects?

The Italian helichrysum essential oil is obtained by steam distillation of the flowering tops of the Helichrysum italicum, a plant thriving in Corsica and Italy. Besides its benefits on bruises, its venotonic effects make it an ally for heavy legs and varicose veins. Furthermore, its proven anti-inflammatory properties allow it to soothe the skin and reduce redness. It is also worth noting that the immortelle essential oil has interesting activity against acne. Finally, it has firming effects and is frequently used to combat signs of aging.

Indispensable in aromatherapy, Italian Helichrysum essential oil is exceptionally gentle and suitable for almost all skin types.

Several studies have highlighted its safety and shown that it is very well tolerated, even after prolonged use. Furthermore, unlike some essential oils, the immortelle essential oil is not photosensitizing and can be used both in the morning and in the evening. That said, even though Italian helichrysum does not increase the risk of sunburn, it does not eliminate the need to use a sunscreen daily.

However, a recent report described a case of contact dermatitis in a 69-year-old woman, caused by the hydrophilic and lipophilic fractions of Helichrysum italicum contained in an emollient cream. Her reaction was demonstrated by a patch test and confirmed by isolating the botanical extract. However, additional testing on 10 volunteers yielded negative results. This observed case of contact dermatitis therefore appears to represent an isolated hypersensitivity reaction.

Are there any contraindications associated with the use of immortelle essential oil?

Like most essential oils, the Italian helichrysum essential oil is not recommended for pregnant women. Indeed, essential oils often consist of ketone functional groups that present neurotoxic and abortifacient risks during pregnancy. They can cross the blood–brain barrier and reach the brain, where they may degrade the myelin sheath that protects neurons. The ketones found in immortelle essential oil are diones, or diketones, meaning molecules with two ketone groups. Due to their higher molecular weight, their passage into the brain is very unlikely. Nevertheless, as a precautionary measure, using immortelle essential oil is not recommended during pregnancy. The same applies to children under three years old because of their skin’s fragility.

Structures chimiques d'une cétone (A) et d'une dicétone (B). — Chemical structures of a ketone (A) and a diketone (B).
Source: GROGAN G. Emergent mechanistic diversity of enzyme-catalysed beta-diketone cleavage. The Biochemical Journal (2005).

Furthermore, as a precautionary measure, it is not recommended for individuals undergoing anticoagulant therapy or suffering from hemophilia to use Italian helichrysum essential oil, due to its venotonic and anti‐hemostatic properties. Neryl acetate and the italidiones it contains are thought to have the ability to interfere with the coagulation cascade and chelate fibrin, the fibrous protein that forms a network trapping blood cells to help contain bleeding. This limits clot formation and can thereby potentiate the effects of anticoagulant drugs, increasing the risk of hemorrhage.

3,12 millions

of patients received at least one anticoagulant in France in 2013.

What precautions should be taken when using immortelle essential oil?

Even though Italian Helichrysum essential oil is generally well tolerated, it is recommended to perform a tolerance test when using it for the first time.

Indeed, every individual may react differently to a cosmetic product. To prevent risks, apply two drops to the crook of your elbow and wait 48 hours. If no adverse reaction occurs, you may use immortelle essential oil on your skin or scalp (but not on mucous membranes or around the eye contour, as this could irritate these sensitive areas). As with any essential oil, please do not apply it undiluted. A 10% dilution in a carrier oil is generally recommended for Italian helichrysum essential oil.

Storage recommendations.

Store the oil at room temperature : High temperatures can cause the evaporation of certain volatile compounds, reducing the quality and safety of immortelle essential oil.
Protect the oil from light : Store the bottle away from UV rays, which accelerate the degradation of active molecules.
Close carefully after each use : This limits contact with air and prevents oxidation, which is responsible for the progressive degradation of Italian helichrysum essential oil.
Observe the expiration date : An oxidized essential oil loses its effectiveness and may become irritating to the skin.