The facial skin is directly exposed to various external aggressions, such as the sun's UV rays, pollution particles, cold, wind, and more. In response to these, the hydrolipidic film deteriorates and the loss of transepidermal water increases. In other words, the skin becomes dehydrated, leading to the appearance of fine lines and a dull complexion. The hydrating mask helps combat this phenomenon. Let's explore together the main ingredients that make it up.
What is a facial hydrating mask composed of?
Summary
Published on March 2, 2022, updated on February 15, 2024, by Maylis, Chemical Engineer — 8 min of reading
Themes:
Hydrating agents and others.
The primary function of a moisturizing mask is to increase the skin's hydration level. To achieve this, the majority of such products contain active ingredients with recognized hydrating properties of which here are a few examples:
Thehyaluronic acid (INCI: "Sodium Hyaluronate"):
Behind this scientific name lies a key ally in combating dehydration fine lines and signs of aging. Naturally present in the dermis, this molecule allows the skin to remain hydrated and firm. It acts like a molecular sponge and can hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water. Furthermore, it serves as a support for collagen and elastin fibers. Thus, it plays a fundamental role in the density and tonicity of the skin. Unfortunately, over the years, its content in the dermis decreases and the skin slackens. From the age of 50, it is proven that the level of hyaluronic acid is halved. Therefore, it is relevant to supply it to the skin through care products in order to stimulate its production at the dermis level and deeply hydrate the skin to prevent the appearance of wrinkles.
The aloe vera gel (INCI: "Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder") :
This plant extract contains substances that act as amoisture shieldon the skin, known asglucomannans. Researchers have shown that when aloe vera gel is applied to the skin, the long-chain mucopolysaccharides polymerize, forming a thin semi-permeable film that provides a moisturizing effect and limits insensible water loss.
Theextract of tremella (INCI: "Tremella Fuciformis (Mushroom) Extract"):
Tremella is a gelatinous mushroom from which it is possible to extract a natural hyaluronic acid of low molecular weight, capable of penetrating deeply into the skin. Rich in polysaccharides and fatty acids, the tremella extract also forms a microscopic film on the skin's surface and improves the impermeability of the skin barrier.
Hydrating masks can also contain compounds with brightening properties to provide a glow to dull and tired complexions. Thus, certain hydrosols can be incorporated into this type of formula such as theorange blossom hydrosol (INCI: "Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Water") or thecornflower hydrosol (INCI: "Centaurea Cyanus Flower Water").
The hydrating face mask from Typology combines aloe vera gel with tremella extract and the previously mentioned orange blossom hydrosol. It is preferably applied once or twice a week, in a semi-thick layer and provides a shot of hydration to the skin.
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Humectant compounds.
The humectant nature of an ingredient is based on its ability to retain water molecules due to its hygroscopic power (strong affinity for water). On the market, the potential humectant compounds found in a hydrating mask are the glycerin, propylene glycol, the PEGs (polyethylene glycol), or even pentylene glycol. Hydrogenated starch hydrolysates (HSH) are also often found as humectant compounds in natural and/or organic hydrating masks as they are approved according to the COSMOS standard.
As a reminder, in the interest of caution, Typology excludes PEGs and propylene glycol from its formulas. The hydrating face mask presented above contains vegetable glycerin combined with pentylene glycol and HSH (INCI: "Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate").
Texturizing agents to give the skincare product its consistency.
Typically, hydrating masks have a consistent, gel-like or even waxy texture. This characteristic is imparted to the product through texturizing agents, which are most often polymers. Here is a non-exhaustive list of thickening agents found in hydrating masks:
The sclerotium gum (INCI: "Sclerotium Gum"):
Derived from a fungus of the Sclerotium genus, this long-chain carbohydrate is used as a natural emulsion stabilizer and viscosity adjuster.
The xanthan gum (INCI: "Xanthan Gum"):
Derived from natural sources, this water-phase thickener is a blend of natural sugar polymers produced through biotechnology.
Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum"):
Also known as Peruvian carob, this natural polysaccharide is derived from the endosperm of the seed of the tara tree (Caesalpinia spinosa), which grows in the Peruvian Andes.
Within the hydrating mask presented above, the gelling agents used are tara gum combined with sclerotium gum.
Preservatives to prevent micro-bacterial growth.
The hydrating mask, which is typically a single-phase aqueous solution, is susceptible to bacterial growth. In response to this, it is essential to incorporate preservatives to maintain the product's effectiveness and safety. In natural skincare, sodium benzoate is often used as an antifungal preservative. While it is approved for organic use, it is still regulated. The maximum allowed concentration in finished preparations is 2.5% (in acid) for rinse-off products, excluding oral care products, and 0.5% (in acid) for leave-on products. Sodium benzoate (INCI name: "Sodium Benzoate") is the preservative used in the hydrating mask by Typology.
Note : Some moisturizing masks may contain synthetic preservatives such as parabens; beware, some of these are recognized as endocrine disruptors. As a precautionary principle, Typology excludes this type of ingredients in its formulas.
