What is a lash and brow serum composed of?

Eyelash and eyebrow serums are most often direct aqueous or emulsified gels (with a majority aqueous phase and a minority oily phase). They contain various categories of ingredients:

• The solvent : Most often listed first on the INCI list, thewater (INCI name: "Aqua (Water)") is the most common solvent in eyelash and eyebrow serums. It dissolves the other compounds present in the formula.

• Gelling Agents: The consistent texture is provided to eyelash and eyebrow serums via texturizing agents, which are most often polymers. There are several types, such as sclerotium gum (INCI name: "Sclerotium Gum") derived from a fungus of the Sclerotium genus, the xanthan gum (INCI name: "Xanthan Gum"), a mix of natural sugar polymers produced by biotechnology, or even tara gum (INCI name: "Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum"), a natural polysaccharide derived from the endosperm of the tara tree seed.

• The active ingredients: Generally, those present in eyelash and eyebrow serums are fortifying and nourishing (ex : castor oil, pea peptides, panthenol, biotinoyl-GHK...). They stimulate, strengthen and densify the cells of the eyelashes and eyebrows, while helping to maintain their good health.

• Humectant Compounds: The humectant property of an ingredient relies on its ability to retain water molecules due to its hygroscopic power (strong affinity for water). On the market, the potential humectant compounds present in an eyelash and eyebrow serum are the glycerin, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycols (PEGs), or even the pentylene glycol. As a reminder, as a precautionary principle, Typology excludes PEGs and propylene glycol from its formulas. The eyelash and eyebrow serum presented below contains vegetable glycerin.

• Fatty substances: Some eyelash/eyebrow serums contain vegetable oils to nourish these hair follicles. The eyelash serum from Typology contains vegetable castor oil (INCI name: "Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil").

• Emulsifiers: The blending of fatty substances with water is made possible by the presence of surfactants, which disperse oil droplets in the aqueous solution to form a stable emulsion. For instance, in the eyelash serum, the surfactants used are dioctyl oxide (INCI name: "Dicaprylyl Ether"), lauryl glucoside, polyglyceryl-6 laurate, sodium steroyl glutamate, as well as glyceryl caprylate (INCI name: "Glyceryl Caprylate"). These are gentle and do not cause eye irritations.

• Preservatives: The lash/brow serum is typically a gel water-based, making it susceptible to bacterial growth. In response to this, it is essential to incorporate preservatives to maintain the product's effectiveness and safety. However, be aware that some lash/brow serums contain phenoxyethanol. This synthetic preservative, known by the acronym EGPhE, is increasingly controversial. Indeed, this compound can cause skin allergies, neurological disorders, as well as effects on reproduction.

Note : There are other types of ingredients sometimes present in eyelash/eyebrow serums such as pigments, to provide coloration to the product.