Composition eau micellaire.

What is the composition of micellar water?

In 1991, a well-known cosmetic brand introduced micellar water, designed to address the concerns of sensitive skin. For over 30 years, this new, simply formulated galenic preparation has been gaining success and growing in popularity day by day. In this article, we will explain the formulation of micellar water.

Summary
Published January 9, 2024, updated on June 24, 2024, — 5 min read

Formulation of Micellar Water: How is it Made?

Easy to use and boasting good skin tolerance, themicellar water has a clean, minimalist appearance that, ultimately, has contributed to its success. Indeed, it simply looks like water. Far more complex than that, micellar water is a blend of purified water (90%), moisturizing components, and a low concentration of micelles formed from mild cleansing agents (surfactants) dispersed in the aqueous solution.

Originating in France, themicellar water is a gentler way to cleanse the face, as tap water is often considered too "harsh" for the skin due to its potentially irritating limestone content.

  • Surfactants: Key ingredients in micellar waters, these amphiphilic molecules, with a hydrophilic "head" and lipophilic "tail", organize themselves into micelles capable of attracting, capturing, and eliminating impurities, while respecting and maintaining the integrity of the skin barrier. Indeed, they must meet several criteria: they should have good cleansing properties, a low critical micelle concentration (CMC), a good skin tolerance profile, and should not have any drying effects.

    Our 7-ingredient micellar water contains a non-ionic plant-based surfactant, Poloxamer 184, which has a low CMC, allowing it to form micelles at very low concentrations.

  • Emollient/Humectant Agents: Most micellar waters contain moisturizing agents (glycerin, panthenol, aquaxyl, etc.), which enhance water retention in the skin and protect against dehydration. However, even if a micellar water does not contain these, it will cleanse the skin without stripping it of its natural hydration, unlike some other cleansers.

  • pH Regulators: Most facial cleansers are formulated at a pH between 4.5 and 6, as this is the pH range physiological of the skin. Thus, these ingredients are used to alter the pH value of the micellar solution, thereby ensuring the stability of the formulation and the effectiveness of the finished cosmetic product.

    For instance, you can adjust the formula either with citric acid to lower the pH (more acidic), or with triethanolamine to raise the pH (more alkaline).

  • Preservatives: Micellar water, like many cosmetics, contains water (INCI: Aqua/Water) as its main ingredient. However, the presence of water makes the formula particularly susceptible to microbial growth. Preservatives are therefore added to prevent the proliferation of microorganisms (bacteria, yeasts, and molds) and extend the product's shelf life, ensuring the microbiological safety and effectiveness of micellar water over time.

  • Active Ingredients: In addition to cleansing surfactants and moisturizing agents, micellar water can also contain soothing actives (such as chamomile, niacinamide, etc.) or purifying actives (like zinc, copper, etc.) to cater to the needs of each skin type: sensitive, oily, dehydrated, etc.

Free from alcohol, artificial fragrance, and essential oils, our 7-ingredient micellar water promotes skin hydration while removing impurities and simultaneously reducing the risk of skin irritation.

The composition of Typology's 7-ingredient micellar water.

Minimalist, our micellar cleansing water by Typology is composed of only seven ingredients. Designed for all skin types, its formula effectively removes makeup and impurities from the face, eyes, and lips with a single swipe of a cotton pad, without harsh rubbing or rinsing. It contains poloxamer, a gentle cleansing agent used in contact lens solutions, intended to help cleanse the skin gently, while the glycerin and pentylene glycol provide hydration. Thus, it leaves the skin clean, refreshed, and hydrated.

INCI NameOriginFunction(s)
Aqua (Water)MineralSolvent
Poloxamer 184SyntheticNon-ionic surfactant
GlycerinPlant-based (derived from rapeseed and sunflower oil)Moisturizer
Pentylene GlycolPlant-based (derived from sugarcane bagasse)Moisturizer
Citric AcidPlant-based (derived from the fermentation of corn)pH Regulator
Cetrimonium BromideSyntheticPreservative
Sodium HydroxideChemicalpH Regulator
Formule de l'eau micellaire Typology.

Source

  • HORNBY S. & al. Cleansing formulations that respect skin barrier integrity. Dermatology Research and Practice (2012).

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